Category: Cooking Tips

Cooking Tips · Ingredients

Summer equals Salads!

culinaryjourneysllc

Warmer weather is often an incentive to eat more salads. The word “salad” can mean a lot of things but it usually includes some sort of greens. Americans tend to equate lettuce with iceberg lettuce but, there are so many more varieties of lettuce and greens to liven up your salads. In this Cooking Tip, I would like to open your eyes to all there is out there. The following list is not all-encompassing as the Yuma, Arizona, County Cooperative Extension office claims there are more than 100 varieties of lettuce and salad greens. I will only discuss some of the most common greens.

Leaf lettuce – This type of lettuce comes in red & green. Rather than coming as a “head” of lettuce, the leaves all branch off of a single stalk. Both red and green leaf are mild in flavor and have tender leaves. It is often found in varieties termed spring lettuce, mesclun, etc. It is great for the base of many salads.

Romaine lettuce – This lettuce has elongated leaves with a thick white rib. Its leaves are sturdy but a bit more bitter. It provides more texture to your salads.

Iceberg lettuce – Although iceberg is looked down upon because it does not have as many nutrients as other types, it does provide a nice crunch. It also is less perishable and will last longer in your refrigerator than other lettuce.

Butterhead lettuce – Two types are Boston and Bibb. Boston is an extremely tender and soft lettuce and due to it flexible leaves that can be separated from the head, it is great for making lettuce cups. Bibb comes in smaller heads and has a sweeter taste.

Kale – Although not a “lettuce”, it is thought of as a nutrient-dense green. It does have a bitterness that is not to everyone’s taste.

Arugula – Known as “rocket” in Europe, it has dark green leaves usually with a long, spiky shape. It has a peppery bite to it. It can be used on its own but is often a great addition to other lettuce mixes. It is also used in sandwiches and as a pizza topping. Because of its peppery flavor, it goes well with tangy dressings.

Spinach – Another green that is full of nutrients that can be the sole green in a salad or mixed with other varieties.

Radicchio – Easily recognized by its reddish-purple color, it also goes by the name of “chicory”. It also tends towards bitterness but that can be tempered by grilling or roasting.

Endive – Also known as Belgian endive, these small leaves are a relative of radicchio and are crisp and slightly bitter. Due to their spoon-like shape, they are great for acting as a vessel for dips or fillings. Another popular preparation is to braise them.

Frisée – Other names include curly endive & curly chicory. These are also in the same family as radicchio and endive and are known by the very curly leaves that are tinged with yellow and green. It has a fairly potent flavor and so, often just a small amount will be added to lettuce blends.

Escarole – This is a type of endive that is mildly bitter. It holds up well to cooking, making it a great addition to soups and pastas.

Mâche – Also known as lamb’s lettuce or corn salad, it is a delicious and sweet green with soft green leaves. Its dark green leaves grow in a rosette pattern. This is one of my favorite greens to add to a salad.

Watercress – The name derives from its semi-aquatic growing nature and is classified as both a green and an herb. It is another green with a peppery flavor.

Mizuna – Also known as Japanese mustard greens, it has a mild, peppery taste. Some say it is like a less intense version of arugula.

For the best salad, try to buy whole heads of lettuce when you can. (Even better, grow your own.) The texture and flavor will be much better than pre-bagged items. They do need to be thoroughly washed before consuming. If you do buy bags of pre-washed greens, the question that always arises is if you need to wash them once you get them home. According to the FDA, prewashed greens can be consumed directly from the bag. They say that prewashed items probably have less bacteria (if any) than what is found on your kitchen counter or sink. Therefore, washing the prewashed greens is more likely to introduce bacteria into an already clean product. Another point made by a microbiologist is that any pathogens remaining on prewashed greens is not likely to be removed by your own washing of them. Here is a link to the FDA Guidelines. If you choose to wash the prewashed greens, make sure your counters/sinks are very clean and store the washed greens in the refrigerator.

For proper storage of crisp heads of lettuce such as iceberg and romaine, core the heads, wrap it in moist paper towels and refrigerate in a plastic bag that has been left slightly open. For leafy greens, including arugula & spinach, either store them in the original container or, if you have room, leave them in the salad spinner after washing and drying them & put the spinner in the refrigerator. More tender heads such as Boston lettuce with the root attached can be stored in the original plastic container or in a plastic bag left slightly open. If there is no root, wrap in moist paper towels and place in a plastic bag left slightly open.

TheKitchn.com tested three different methods of storing greens. The favorite in this test was to line a plastic storage container with paper towels, put the greens on top and cover with more paper towels followed by the lid before placing in the refrigerator.

If your lettuce has wilted, it means it has lost water. To refresh it, just soak it in plain ice water for about 30 minutes.

According to WebMD, eating a salad almost every day may be one of the healthiest eating habits we can adopt. It is also one of the simplest and, if you branch out with some of these less-frequently used greens, it can also be a very tasty one!

Cooking Tips · Ingredients

Cinnamon — Sweet or Spicy?

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Cinnamon is one of those wonderful, warm spices that makes us think of fall. It is a spice, though, that I daresay most of us use year-round. In this Cooking Tip, I want to talk about the different types of cinnamon so you can choose what works best for you.

There are two main types of cinnamon – Cassia cinnamon and Ceylon cinnamon. They are from the bark of different trees (although the trees are related scientifically) and are very different products. The different trees result in different levels of the volatile oils, which is what impart the flavor. The amount of these oils can also vary with the age of the bark at the time of harvesting. Older trees contain more oils.

Cassia cinnamon is what most of us probably have in our pantries and see on most supermarket shelves. In the bark-form, it has a rougher texture, a darker color and is rolled into thicker sheets. It also has a more intense flavor, which is what makes it a favorite in the culinary world.

Cassia cinnamon can be further broken down into Indonesian, Chinese and Vietnamese/Saigon.

  • Indonesian – this is the sweetest and most mild among the three. This is also the most common in the US. It usually comes from the bark of trees that are under 10 years old. Another name is Korintje cinnamon.

  • Saigon – this is very fragrant and flavorful, more spicy than sweet. The trees from which it is harvested are often 20-25 years old.

  • Chinese – this has a strong, bitter flavor and is mainly used medicinally in China. In the US, it is mainly found in the form of oils used to flavor food in the manufacturing industry.

Ceylon cinnamon is often referred to as “True” cinnamon and is native to Ceylon/Sri Lanka. As compared to cassia, the bark sheets are thinner and finer in texture. Its flavor and aroma are very mild and delicate although proponents say its floral and citrus notes add more complexity to the flavor. It is more expensive and harder to find than cassia cinnamon. The trees are usually only 3-4 years old. Another interesting fact is that this is the type of cinnamon that is most used in Mexico where it is known as canela. (Asian dishes are more likely to use cassia cinnamon.)

So, there are definite differences but do they make a significant difference in what comes out of your kitchen? Cooks Illustrated did a taste test of eight cinnamons. Half of them were from Vietnam and the other half were Indonesian. While definite differences could be detected when the cinnamon was simply sprinkled on rice pudding, those differences went away when baked into cinnamon rolls or on pita chips.

Cooks Illustrated also did a different taste test comparing three Ceylon cinnamons with their favorite Indonesian product. Once again, they added them to rice pudding as well as baking them into cinnamon rolls. In this test, tasters could easily identify the Ceylon products as they were milder although they preferred the spicier Indonesian cinnamon.

Serious Eats also did tastings and produced the following recommendations.

  • Saigon cinnamon is best for most traditional Western dishes – cookies, cakes, pies, breads, etc. They found that the bolder flavor held its own against the fat/flour of these items. They also found that it paired well with other spices that are typically found in these recipes such as allspice, clove and nutmeg.

  • Ceylon cinnamon was best when there were not as many competing flavors. Their favorite uses were when used with chocolate, vanilla, dark liquors and citrus as well as in savory dishes.

One aspect with which you may or may not be concerned is the presence of a compound known as Coumarin. It is found in much higher levels in the cassia cinnamon as opposed to Ceylon cinnamon. Some feel it may have deleterious effects on your liver. Whereas this is probably more of a problem if you are taking cinnamon supplements, if you are concerned, consult your physician. Here is a link to a discussion of cinnamon and coumarin by the National Institutes of Health.

Just like any other spice, store your cinnamon in a cool, dark and dry place. It should last at least a year. If you take a sniff and don’t smell much, it is time for a new bottle. Some recommend grinding it fresh from cinnamon sticks. Of course, how fresh it will be depends on how fresh your sticks are. You may have no idea of this when buying in a supermarket. It is unusual but not impossible to find harvest dates on your cinnamon sticks. Cinnamon Hill was one such place. However, as of April 2022, they have closed their website. If you know of others, let me know. If you have read many of my Cooking Tips or attended my classes, you will know that I am a fan of Savory Spice Shop. (This is an affiliate link and I may earn a commission if you decide to purchase.) Next time I am in their shop, I will ask if they know the harvest dates of their cinnamon sticks. If you want to know their answer, just email me.

I encourage you to pick up some of these cinnamon varieties and do your own taste test. You may not find just one favorite and that is fine. Different cinnamons lend themselves to different preparations. Enjoy and have fun with cinnamon!

Cooking Tips · Ingredients

The Spicy Flavor of Pepper!

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Apart from salt, pepper is probably one of the most commonly used spices in your kitchen. Today, there are multiple types available in the spice aisle. Do you just grab what is cheapest? Have you ever thought if there are differences between types and brands? In this Cooking Tip, I will try to give you some food for thought concerning pepper.

Peppercorns come from the Piper nigrum plant, a climbing vine that is native to India and Indonesia although grown in other tropical countries. Vietnam is one of the largest producers. If destined to become Black Pepper, the berries are picked when they are slightly under-ripe and allowed to dry until they are dark brown or black and shriveled. This type of pepper has the strongest flavor.

White Peppercorns have been allowed to fully ripen, the skin is removed and the berry is dried. White peppercorns have smoother skins, are light tan in color and milder in flavor. They are often used in sauces or foods where you do not want the dark specks or the bold spiciness of black pepper. Its flavor is a bit more earthy than black pepper.

Green Peppercorns are the soft, under-ripe berry and are often preserved in brine although you can find them in dried form. They have a fresher and less pungent flavor.

Pink Peppercorns are misnamed as they are not truly peppercorns. They are the dried fruit from the Brazilian pepper tree. They have a rosy color and, although still spicy, they also have flavor notes of herbs and citrus. Besides flavor, they add an element of color to the dish. Because this tree is a relative of the cashew tree, people with nut allergies should be cautious before consuming. The berries are too fragile to be put through a peppermill and, so should be crushed by hand.

Apart from the type of peppercorn, there are also differences depending on the origin of the plant. Just as with wine or tea, the variations in terroir and climate can make the flavor profile distinct despite being the same plant.

Among black peppercorns, one of the most sought-after is the Tellicherry peppercorn. They are grown in India, are larger in size and some feel they are superior in flavor. Recently, Cooks Illustrated did a taste test among black peppercorns – both Tellicherry and regular. They tested them by mixing with rice as well as using them in dishes such as steak au poivre, pepper-crusted beef tenderloin and ricotta/pepper crostini. In these dishes, it was hard to detect any flavor differences. It was a bit more evident in a simple egg salad although it was still subtle. Their conclusion – there was no clear preference among their tasters for the Tellicherry. Rather, they did find more differences among brands. Their three favorites among major brands of whole black peppercorns were Tone’s, Penzeys and McCormick.

Serious Eats also did a taste testing and rated their favorites in terms of type rather than brand. Their tastes preferred the following peppercorns: Lampong (Indonesia), Tellicherry, Brazilian and Vietnamese. They do stress, though, that taste preferences are very subjective. On a more objective level is the flavor profile, aromas and textures of these different peppercorns. Some may lend themselves to particular uses better than others. The main takeaway is that pepper is not pepper. There is a wide variety among flavor that you will only come to know by trying different kinds.

There is one piece of advice that most experts agree upon. No matter what type of pepper you buy, get whole peppercorns and grind them yourselves. Pre-ground pepper can be gritty and tough as well as significantly lacking in peppery flavor. The oils that are responsible for pepper’s heat and aroma start to dissipate shortly after cracking the peppercorn. Another consideration is that whole peppercorns, when stored correctly, will keep their flavor for a little over a year. As mentioned, ground pepper’s flavor starts to degrade shortly after grinding. Who knows how long that pepper in the shaker has been ground and sitting there?

This simple step of purchase a peppercorn grinder and whole peppercorns can make a world of difference in your dish’s flavor. Experiment with the different kinds and brands of pepper and have fun!

Cooking Tips · Techniques

How to succeed in the kitchen!

culinaryjourneysllc

I read many different sources of culinary information from cookbooks to magazines to emails to blogs. I often find interesting and helpful items. I have seen a number of articles that lay out behaviors that can make or break your success in the kitchen. In this Cooking Tip, I have pulled the best of these for you. If you have taken any of my cooking classes, you will certainly recognize some of these suggestions and, I hope, have begun to incorporate them into your kitchen life. It may be difficult to break old habits and get into good routines, but I guarantee you it will make you a better and more efficient cook!

  1. Read the recipe all the way through before starting. This may seem self-evident but there are many people who do not do this. When reading the recipe, look at the ingredients AND the directions. Only then will you know such things as what you need to pick up at the store, what equipment you will need and the timing. If not, you may miss that Step #3 tells you to chill the mixture for two hours. If you are hoping to get this on the dinner table in under an hour, this is not going to work. Yes, you can skip those steps but do not expect the recipe to turn out as it was intended. There are usually very good reasons why a recipe calls for a particular ingredient, certain equipment and recommended timing. Only by trying to stick to these recommendations the first time you make a recipe will you know how it should turn out.

  2. If you want to double or halve the recipe, do the math up front and write it down. Not all recipes do well with doubling or halving. However, if you are going to do so, write down the adjusted measurements next to each and every ingredient. It is so easy to get partway through and forget to change the amount. I’ve been there! Savory recipes do much better with these alterations than baking ones. If you want to double a baking recipe, just make two separate ones. It usually turns out much better.

  3. Follow the recipe directions as closely as possible. If a recipe tells you to reduce a sauce to a certain consistency, don’t get impatient and stop before you get there. The flavors will not be the same. Note carefully how items are to be cut – chopped, sliced, diced, minced etc. Different cuts produce different results. Also, try to cut them uniformly. If your potato cubes or onion slices vary in size, they will not cook evenly. You do not want to end up with a dish where parts are underdone and others overdone. Not very appetizing!

  4. Be cautious about substituting ingredients. Not all substitutions work. If your recipe calls for white balsamic vinegar, do not assume you can substitute any white vinegar. In baking, not all sweeteners can be swapped for each other in equal amounts. Again, try to make the recipe as written the first time so you know what it should taste like. Then, if you want to try a substitution, you will have a reference point.

  5. Don’t substitute dried herbs for fresh in equal measure. Dried herbs are better for some applications whereas fresh are better for others. Try to use what the recipe recommends. If you do decide to substitute, be aware that it is not a 1:1 ratio. If using dried in place of fresh, use only about a third of what is specified for fresh.

  6. Try to avoid precut, preshredded, etc. Yes, these items are certainly convenient but often, what you gain in convenience, you lose in taste & texture. One of the most glaring examples is cheese. There is a reason that so many recipes call for “Freshly Grated” cheese. Yes, you can find it pre-grated in bags or, even worse, cans. The latter often do not behave as you might expect and a look at the ingredient list often tells the story. There are usually some “anti-caking” agents added such as “powdered cellulose”. Although some may disagree, the taste is often not as vibrant as freshly grated cheese. Another plus for buying a block of cheese and grating it yourself is that it is a better economical choice as you will get more for your money.

    The story is similar with precut veggies and fruit. First, they are much more expensive than the whole versions. Second, it has been shown that it increases your risk of food-borne illness. Thirdly, once a fruit or vegetable has been cut, the nutrients start to degrade.

As I have been writing this, I realize that there is so much more to say such as prepping your ingredients before commencing cooking, weighing ingredients (as opposed to using measuring cups), keeping your knives sharp, watching your ingredient temperature, using a trash bowl and on and on. However, I will stop here so this Tip does not become a Treatise!

 

 

Cooking Tips · Ingredients

Mirepoix, Sofrito & What?

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Good cooking techniques transcend the type of cooking you want to do. However, when you get to ingredients, they vary between types of cuisines. Mirepoix, Sofrito and Cajun Trinity are examples of similar items that differ from cuisine to cuisine. In this Cooking Tip, I would like to explain these mixtures, their similarities and differences.

All three of these terms refer to the basis of so many savory dishes. The ingredients are mixtures of aromatic vegetables. These vegetables are diced and sautéed in some type of oil. This base is used in the completion of whatever dish you are cooking. They are meant to provide a subtle but pleasant background flavor as well as supporting and improving the flavor of the finished dish. In French cooking, it is called Mirepoix. Sofrito refers to a similar mixture in Italian, Spanish & Latin American cuisine. For Cajun cooking, it is called the Cajun Trinity, also known as the Holy Trinity.

France is the home of classical cooking techniques. Their classic Mirepoix is a mixture of onions, carrots & celery. The ratio is typically 2 parts onion, 1 part carrot and 1 part celery – by weight. A common variation is White Mirepoix where leeks and parsnips replace some of the onions and carrots. It is used to flavor dishes when you want a white color in the final dish. Other ingredients that are sometimes used are shallots, garlic, diced ham, tomatoes, mushrooms, peppers and ginger.

The classic Italian Sofrito actually starts as something called a Battuto and, once cooked, it is termed a Sofrito. Usually it is a combination of onions, celery, carrots, garlic and parsley although there are quite a few variations on this mixture. It also can include bell peppers or fennel as well as finely diced cured meats such as pancetta or prosciutto. There is no set ratio for the ingredients.

There are many regional variations on the Italian Sofrito including Puerto Rican, Cuban and Dominican. These variations often include ingredients that are specific to those areas.

The Cajun Trinity requires bell pepper, onion and celery. Although there is a difference of opinion on this, a good starting ratio is 2 parts onion, 1 part celery and 1 part green bell pepper. This particular mixture does not usually have as many variations as the other mixtures. Along with a dark roux, it becomes the base for Cajun and Creole dishes such as gumbo, jambalaya and étouffée.

Suppengrün is of German origin and is made of carrots, celery root and leeks. Variations include onions, parsnips and potatoes. There is no set ratio.

From Poland we get Włoszczyzna, similar to its German counterpart but often with cabbage as the primary ingredient.

No matter which version of this base you are using, be sure to cut the vegetables relatively uniform in size. The shorter the cooking time of the ultimate dish, the smaller size the pieces should be. For longer times, they can be cut into larger pieces.

To turn these vegetables into the respective base, heat the cooking fat (typically oil or butter) in a sturdy pan. Generally, the onions (or leeks) will be cooked in the fat first. What comes next depends on the particular mixture. If garlic is called for, add it next but cook carefully so it doesn’t brown or burn. Follow by adding the rest of the vegetables. Lastly, add the herbs.

Usually, only “sweating” the mixture is what you want. This would be done on a lower heat just until the vegetables are giving off some of their juices, softening in texture but not browning. If you are using this base in a dish such as a soup, stew or pasta sauce, feel free to slowly cook the vegetables until they are almost melted. If you wish to add them to something like a frittata or omelet, you may want to stop cooking before they lose all their texture. There are times when the mixture is cooked until it browns but I will leave that for another discussion.

The main take-away from this discussion is that slowly cooking these aromatic vegetables even if you do not follow the listed combinations can add a tremendous amount of flavor. This simple step can take your dish from good to great!

 

 

Cooking Tips · Techniques

High Altitude Baking

culinaryjourneysllc7 Comments

This Cooking Tip is Part 2 about the problems of being in a high-altitude kitchen. The first Tip was about the difficulties of cooking at high altitude. In this one, I want to tackle baking, something that can be even more challenging than cooking at high altitude. If you live above 3000 feet, I’m sure you have suffered your share of fallen cakes or cupcakes, under-done interiors, a dry texture and more. I often speak to people who have given up on baking when they move to our area. In this Cooking Tip, I want to encourage you to try again. You do not have to cease baking if you have a bit of knowledge about what is happening and what can be done about it.

Overcoming the problems of high-altitude baking starts with understanding the source of those problems. As you go up in altitude, air pressure decreases and, as noted in last week’s Tip, water boils at a lower temperature. Consequently, the liquids inside your baked item (or around it if using a water bath) do not get as hot and the baking time may need to be extended. The decreased air pressure also means quicker rising in items that contain leavening agents as the gases rapidly expand. Therefore, your cake rises very quickly – before the batter has had time to set. Once you take it out of the oven, that underdone middle collapses and you have a gummy crater in the middle of your beautiful cake. Another problem is that there is quicker evaporation of liquids, resulting in dry baked items.

If those are the problems, what are the solutions? The first thing to note is that not all recipes fail at high altitude. I encourage you to try the recipe as written the first time you make it. You may be surprised as it turns out wonderful. If not, there are a number of steps you can take. Do not do all the changes at once. Start with making just one or two adjustments and taking notes about the results. If the item still does not turn out as you wish, try more adjustments. In my experience, some recipes just need a slight tweaking while others need more. I have even had one recipe that I just discarded because nothing seemed to work.

Here is a list of adjustments for high altitude baking.

  • Oven temperature – Increase by 15-25 degrees. Monitor the cooking time as, with the increased temperature, you may need to shorten the baking time by about 5 minutes per 30 minutes of cooking time. If you are above 7000 feet, it may be better to leave the temperature alone and increase baking time. The increased temperature at this altitude can lead to over-crusting.

  • Flour – increase the amount by 1 tablespoon per cup of flour. It is also preferable to use all-purpose rather than cake or pastry flour.

  • Liquid — Increase by 2-4 tablespoons per cup of flour.

  • Leavening – decrease baking soda/powder by 25-40% depending on altitude.

  • Eggs – add an additional egg.

  • Sugar – reduce by 1-4 tablespoons per cup of flour. Do not remove more than ¼ cup.

  • Acid – because acidic batters tend to set more quickly as well as holding moisture in batter, substituting buttermilk, sour milk, yogurt, or sour cream (all high in acidity) for regular milk (which is lower in acidity) often leads to an improved result.

Another question you might have is which type of baked goods can be affected by altitude. To some extent, all baked goods could be affected if only by the lack of moisture. Baked goods that rise in the oven are the most affected – cakes, cupcakes, etc. They are likely the ones to give you the most difficulty. Although less of a problem, even muffins and quick breads may need slight adjustments. Some people have concerns with their cookie recipes although many cookie problems are not necessarily related to altitude. I wrote an earlier Cooking tip on Cookie Success. If you have not read this and want to, just email me.

Pies do not rise but may need some extra liquid in the crust as well as a longer baking time.

Making yeast breads at altitude is interesting in that they, too, will rise faster. Some may like this as the waiting time for the dough to double in size is decreased. This, though, is not a total positive. The slower yeast breads rise, the more flavor develops. If you like the resulting product, there is no need to change anything. However, to maximize flavor, you may want to decrease the yeast by about 25% or punch the dough down and allow a second rise to occur. Allowing your dough to rise very slowly in the refrigerator overnight is also something that can enhance flavor – whether or not you live at high altitude.

If you are saying, “This is all too much trouble!”, don’t despair. A quick look on Amazon showed not less than 20 cookbooks written with recipes that have already been adjusted for altitude. Grab one of those and get back in the kitchen. Delightful baked goods are just around the corner!

Cooking Tips · Techniques

The Woes of Cooking at High Altitude

culinaryjourneysllc4 Comments

I was at a neighborhood gathering the other night and some of the people (especially those new to our area) were complaining about problems they have with cooking & baking at our altitude of 6000 feet. Some of the things they were saying were a bit inaccurate and everyone had their own solutions. I figured those concerns & misconceptions were probably more wide-spread and thus, I decided to write about this topic. This week’s Cooking Tip will be about problems with cooking at high altitude. Next week’s will deal with baking. Earlier I wrote an entire tip on Candy Making at altitude. If you did not get that one and wish to, just email me and I will forward it to you.

These two tips are mostly for those of us that live at what is called High Altitude. What is high altitude? It depends on the topic for which you are concerned. In baking/cooking, some say 3000 feet and others say 5000 feet. Because of my husband’s job, I have lived in many different states and other countries. As I moved from place to place, I did not personally notice a problem until I moved to an area where the altitude was about 5000 feet. The problem exacerbated when we lived in an area of 7000 feet. Now that we are settled at about 6000 feet, I deal with the altitude problems on a regular basis.

You might ask why altitude matters in cooking. Much of it has to do with the boiling temperature of water. At sea level, water boils at 212°. For every 500 feet that you go up in altitude, the temperature at which water boils drops by 1 degree. If you do the math, you will see that water boils at about 200° at my house. No matter how much I turn up the heat on my stovetop, the temperature of the water in my pot will not get above 200°. The only way I am going to get my water hotter is by using a pressure cooker. The lower air pressure also means the water will evaporate faster. Think about how many recipes call for you to cook something in boiling/simmering water. I would suspect that most of those recipes are written by someone who is used to their boiling point being close to 212°. If you are cooking in water that is significantly lower in temperature, it will take longer to cook. This is especially true with food items such as beans and rice but also applies to pasta, meat, stews and other foods.

What can you do about this problem? The simplest answer is to cook your food longer. However, because of increased evaporation, you may also need more water to ensure it doesn’t dry out. As you near the time you would expect the item to be done, check it. For example, taste your rice and beans to see if they are tender. If not, cook longer and add liquid as needed. I have found my white rice cooks just fine in my rice cooker. I have more problems cooking brown rice. For that, I tend to use the “pasta method” of cooking. Instead of using a water-to-rice ratio, I cook my brown rice in enough water to cover the rice by at least an inch – just as you do with pasta. Check periodically to see if the rice is done and, if not, cook longer but check to see if you need to add liquid. When the rice is done, you may need to drain off excess water. If so, do that, replace the lid and allow it to rest and steam for a few minutes before serving.

For beans, you may consider pre-soaking your beans although your cooking time will still probably be longer than you might expect and you will also need to watch the liquid level. A side problem of this is that with the extended cooking time, the skins sometimes disintegrate. To help with this, lower the temperature so the beans are cooking at a gentle simmer, not a rolling boil. Others recommend adding an acid, sugar or calcium. Acid makes the bean’s cell wall more stable. Sugar reinforces cell wall structure and slows the swelling of the starches. Calcium reinforces cell walls. One expert states that molasses is a good source of all three if the flavor would be compatible with your recipe. She also recommends adding tomatoes (which are acidic) or cooking beans with hearty greens (which add calcium). Another answer is to use your pressure cooker or Instant Pot.

As I mentioned, you may notice similar problems with potatoes, pasta and stews. If you recognize this, plan for a longer cooking time and ensure your liquid does not evaporate, you should be just fine.

If you want to read more, here is a link to discussions on high altitude cooking on the FDA site as well as the Colorado State Extension office.

Happy High Altitude Cooking and stay tuned for High Altitude Baking.

Cooking Tips · Ingredients

Garlic — How to tame it

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If you cook from scratch much, I suspect you have used garlic in something within the last week or so. It is just one of those ingredients that is a “must have” for your pantry and is used in many different savory applications. In this Cooking Tip, I would like to discuss garlic, what it is and how to use it.

Garlic is a member of the lily family and is a cousin to onions, leeks, shallots & chives. The part we eat is actually the bulb (termed a head) made up of multiple cloves. What we do with those cloves can greatly affect the resulting flavor of the garlic.

First, let’s start with the germ of the clove, that small inner part of the clove. Should you remove it? The answer is “perhaps”. If your garlic is young, there is probably no need to remove the germ. If the garlic head is older, then the germ may give your dish an unpleasant and pungent flavor. In that case, it is best to remove. The problem comes in knowing whether your garlic is old or not. Even though you can buy garlic year-round, it is seasonal with harvests occurring from late summer to late fall. If you grow your own garlic or if you buy from a farmer’s market where you can ask the grower, it is simple to tell how old the garlic is. If you get your garlic from the supermarket, you do not know but you can be pretty assured that it is old if you are buying it in the winter or spring. You can also do a visual inspection but you have to open a clove. If the germ is barely visible, it is on the younger side. As the garlic matures, that germ also grows and becomes very visible. If in doubt and you are concerned about an overpowering and harsh garlic flavor, remove the germ.

Something else that affects garlic’s flavor is how you cut it. As you cut a garlic clove, cells are damaged causing a chemical reaction that produces compounds that we associate with the odor & taste of garlic. The more cell damage that occurs, the more intense the odor and flavor. Therefore, the smaller you cut up garlic, the more intense it will be. Grating it produces the most intense product. As one culinary expert puts it, “a single whole clove will deliver less intensity than a crushed one, a crushed clove will be milder than a sliced clove, and a sliced one isn’t as pungent as a chopped or pureed one—the more cells we rupture when cutting garlic, the more potent it is.”

Cooking the garlic will help tame its pungency. However, this does depend on how long it is cooked. If you cook it briefly, you will probably still notice the flavor differences that result from your cutting method. The longer the dish is cooked, the less noticeable the differences in cutting techniques will be. Roasting whole heads in the oven produce a tender and even sweet product. Experts also say that cooking the garlic in butter will lead to a milder flavor than cooking it in vegetable oil.

Using acid will also produce milder garlic flavors. For example, pureeing the garlic with lemon juice produces garlic with good flavor but it will be fairly mellow. Or, allowing the garlic to soak in vinegar for a minute and then proceeding to add it to your vinaigrette will result in a milder garlic flavor than just throwing the garlic in without this step.

Another chef recommends just washing your garlic in a bowl of lukewarm water after slicing or chopping it. After removing it from the water, dry it and then continue with your recipe. A further step is blanching it in boiling water or milk before shocking it in ice water before using it. Cooks Illustrated says that just microwaving for 2-3 minutes or until warm to the touch is another effective method. For these methods to work, the garlic’s temperature must rise to or above 140°F.

What about those bottles of garlic? Sure, they are convenient but are they worth it? Health experts say that any supposed health benefits are greatly reduced in the bottled versions. As far as flavor, fresh will taste – well, fresher. How you are using the garlic may help you decide whether to use fresh or bottled. If it is in an uncooked or lightly cooked dish, opt for raw. If you are making something that is going to cook or simmer for a while, the bottled will probably suffice.

Not everyone likes the taste of garlic. It is an essential ingredient, though, for many dishes. I trust that the above information will help you adjust the intensity of the aroma and flavor to your liking.

Cooking Tips · Ingredients

Salmon — wild or farmed

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I was making salmon for dinner and started thinking that I could hardly wait for the time that fresh, wild Pacific salmon is in the stores again. Why is that? Because, in my opinion, it is the best tasting salmon ever. I thought some of you might enjoy a Cooking Tip about this very subject. Now, I am not going to address environmental concerns over farmed versus wild or similar topics. Nor am I going to focus on the health benefits/concerns although wild-caught salmon is felt to be an extremely healthy and nutritious food. I am approaching this Tip purely from a culinary perspective.

Salmon are fish that live naturally in the northern Atlantic & Pacific oceans. The two main groups of salmon around North America are Atlantic and Pacific salmon. There is only one type of Atlantic salmon but there are quite a few from the Pacific ocean.

Chinook salmon (aka King) is the largest and found mainly in Alaska but also down the west coast. It is known for its smooth, melting texture and a rich, buttery flavor.

Chum salmon (aka dog or silverbrite salmon) is found in Alaska down to the northwest tip of the US. As you can assume from the name, this is not a highly desired salmon. There are those, though, that say as long as it is handled properly, it is a perfectly acceptable salmon with a lighter flavor. It is often used for grilling and smoking.

Coho salmon (aka silver salmon) is greatly prized and is found in Alaska and down the west coast.

Pink salmon is the most abundant but also the smallest. It is the type used for canned salmon.

Sockeye salmon (aka red salmon) is named for its colorful red flesh.

All Atlantic salmon is farm-raised, mostly from the states of Washington and Maine. There are also international farms in Canada, Norway and Chili. It is harvested year-round. At times, you will see terms other than Atlantic vs Pacific. For instance, it might say Chilean, Norwegian, Scottish, etc. These salmon are undoubtably Atlantic, and therefore farmed. If in doubt, ask the fishmonger.

If you want wild salmon, you must buy Pacific. The harvest season is from May through September.

Why do I eagerly await the fresh, wild salmon season? The succinct answer is TASTE. In my opinion, the taste of wild salmon is far superior to that of farmed salmon. You will have those that disagree, though, as they prefer the milder flavor of the Atlantic. Another item to consider is that if you look at the signs advertising the Atlantic salmon, you will usually see “color added”. Because of its diet, wild Pacific salmon is naturally orange, pink or reddish. On the other hand, Atlantic salmon is very pale and unappetizing looking. To counter this, the fish are fed an ingredient called “astaxanthin”. Although this ingredient can be produced naturally thorough algae or pulverized crustaceans, it is often synthesized in a lab from petroleum products. Its purpose is to add color to the flesh.

Another term you will notice that I have used is “fresh”. That term distinguishes it from frozen salmon. Pacific (preferably Alaskan) salmon that has never been frozen and has been wild-caught is my preference any day of the week – not only for the superior flavor but also because I like the texture better. Many fishmongers will tell you if the fish has been handled properly after catching and then flash frozen, it is just as good, if not better, than fish that has been transported in a fresh state to the store. One researcher postulated that this may be true for more fatty salmon – either King salmon or Atlantic salmon. Other Pacific salmon is leaner and may not stand up as well to freezing.

Wild, fresh, Pacific salmon will be more expensive. I think it is totally worth it. If you are going to spend the money for this great fish, you want to make sure to cook it properly. There are many different ways to cook salmon – pan-frying, grilling, baking, broiling or poaching. They will all give you different results. The most important thing is to not overcook it. I still remember when we lived in Guam and we went to a very nice restaurant. I ordered salmon and when the server asked me how I wanted it cooked, I said well-done. He looked at me and asked me to try it medium as the Chef recommended. If I didn’t like it, he would ask the chef to cook it more. I agreed. When it came out, I was so surprised at how tasty, moist and succulent it was. It was cooked all the way through but it was not overcooked. I never returned to the land of “well-cooked salmon”!

The best way to ensure you do not overcook your salmon is to use an instant read thermometer. Salmon is a very quick cooking fish. The actual cooking time will vary depending on the thickness of the fish portion and the cooking technique. It can be as little as 6 or 7 minutes or up to 15 minutes. Some experts recommend four to six minutes per half-inch of thickness.

There are some visual signs of doneness. The flesh will turn lighter and more opaque. The middle of the salmon, though, should still be slightly translucent. If it is opaque all the way through, it is over-cooked. The salmon should give way a bit but not necessarily flake. If it flakes, once again it is probably over-cooked. Since these visual cues can be somewhat subjective, taking the internal temperature is the best way to gauge doneness. Many sources will tell you to cook your salmon to 145°. I find that much too high. Cooks Illustrated agrees. They recommend cooking farmed salmon to 125° and wild salmon to 120°. The difference is due to the lower fat content in most wild salmon.

You may balk at those temperature recommendations. However, if you give it a try, I suspect that just as I was in that restaurant in Guam, you will be amazed at the results. Let me know!

Cooking Tips · Ingredients

Egg Tidbits Part 2

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I would like to continue our discussion of Eggs in this Cooking Tip with a few more helpful tidbits. In last week’s Tip, I told you how to interpret the dates on the carton to determine how old your eggs are when you buy them. What if you have had them in the refrigerator for a while, how do you know if they are still fresh? Here is an easy test.

Freshness of eggs – Place the egg in a bowl of water. If it lays on its side at the bottom, it is still fresh. If it stands upright on the bottom, it should be eaten fairly soon. If it floats, it may be time to throw it away. According to the USDA, “an egg can float in water when its air cell has enlarged sufficiently to keep it buoyant. This means the egg is old, but it may be perfectly safe to use. Crack the egg into a bowl and examine it for an off-odor or unusual appearance before deciding to use or discard it. A spoiled egg will have an unpleasant odor when you break open the shell, either when raw or cooked.”

Egg Storage – When properly handled and stored, eggs rarely spoil. However, if you keep them too long, they are likely to dry up. Refrigerate eggs at 40°F or less. Store them in their original carton on an inside shelf and away from pungent foods. The temperature on an inside shelf remains more constant than one on the door, which is opened and closed frequently. The carton keeps the eggs from picking up odors or flavors from other foods and helps prevent moisture loss.

Raw eggs that have been removed from their shells should be refrigerated in a tightly covered container. Refrigerated whole egg yolks should be covered with water to prevent them from drying out; drain before using. The following chart shows how long hard-boiled eggs and raw eggs last when stored in the refrigerator.

EGG STORAGE CHART

PRODUCT REFRIGERATOR FREEZER

Raw eggs in shell 3-5 weeks Do not freeze

Raw egg whites 2-4 days 12 months

Raw egg yolks 2-4 days Yolks do not freeze well

Hard cooked eggs, in shell 1 week Do not freeze

Casseroles made with eggs 3-4 days After baking, 2-3 months

Quiche with any kind of filling 3-4 days After baking, 1-2 months

Egg sizes — Size tells you the minimum required net weight per dozen eggs. It does not refer to the dimensions of an egg or how big it looks. It is not the size of each individual egg but it is the total weight of the dozen eggs that determines the size noted on the carton.

Size of Egg Minimum net weight per dozen Weight per egg

Peewee 15 ozs 1¼ ozs
Small 18 ozs 1½ ozs
Medium 21 ozs 1¾ ozs
Large 24 ozs 2 ozs
Extra Large 27 ozs 2¼ ozs
Jumbo 30 ozs 2½ ozs

If you are wondering if you can substitute one egg size for another, the American Egg Board recommends the following.

Large Jumbo X-Large Medium Small

1 1 1 1 1
2 2 2 2 3
3 2 3 3 4
4 3 4 5 5
5 4 4 6 7
6 5 5 7 8

Peeling eggs – I’m sure you all have had the problem of peeling a hard-boiled egg and taking off a large part of the egg with the shell. Is there a solution to this? Yes, but it involves using a technique that is very different than what you have heard before or what I was taught in culinary school. This topic arose in a class I just taught about hosting an Afternoon Tea party. I do not have an Instapot but many in the class did and raved about how easy it was to peel eggs cooked in this device. I believe this as it works similarly to the following method, which is what I use.

Serious Eats did a number of tests to determine the best way to cook eggs and be able to easily peel them without creating craters in your egg. The way most of us were taught is to put the eggs in cold water and then bring that water to a boil. What this does, in reality, is to cause the egg proteins to fuse to the inside of the shell, making it very difficult to peel. To prevent this, they suggest a different method.

They found carefully dropping the eggs into boiling water (or steam), lowering the water temperature then continuing to cook in barely simmering water is the best way. After removing, peel them under running cool water. While the eggs are still hot, the membrane and egg white are more easily separated. Here is a link to the actual recipe.

In this chef’s book, The Food Lab, he recommends adding some ice to help the water cool more quickly. If you have an Instapot, let me know if you agree if it is a wonder for boiled eggs. If not, give this technique a try and I think you will be pleased.

There is much more to this wonderful foodstuff we call Eggs. However, I suspect that you have had enough. So, I will finish this second Cooking Tip on Eggs. If there are other egg-related topics that you would like for me to discuss, just let me know!