In my Cooking Tip on “Fats in a Healthy Diet”, I discussed culinary oils in general. In this Tip, I want to focus on one type in particular – Extra Virgin Olive Oil.

This is one of the most expensive type of culinary oils you will buy and we all like to make sure we get the best for our money. I have done some research on how to pick out a great olive oil and following are what the experts tell us.

Here are certain things to look for.

1. The harvest date – The “Best By” date may be 24-32 months after bottling and 1-2 years after pressing. The “Harvest” date is a much better indicator of freshness. Try to pick one with the most recent date, remembering that olives are usually harvested in the fall and winter, meaning the harvest date for what is on the shelf will be the year before.
   
   
2. The container – Look for oil that is in a dark container. Light can degrade the oil. Pick an oil where the container protects the oil from the light.
   
   
3. Country/Region of origin – Look for where the oil was sourced. Higher quality olive oils will be sourced from one country. Note that wording like “Product of Italy” might only mean that it was shipped from Italy, not necessarily that the olives were grown and harvested in Italy.
   
   Less pricey & mass market olive oils are often a result of buying cheap bulk oils from all over the world and blending them. This means less quality control over the handling of the oil but it also means these oils lack the distinct flavor that you expect from a good olive oil.
   
   
4. The Cultivars – Look for the specific olives that have been harvested.

If at all possible, taste the oil before purchasing it. This generally means going to a gourmet food store or a shop that specializes in oil. The typical supermarket is not going to offer tastings outside of the rare special event.

The reason that we must be savvy olive oil shoppers is that some deficits in the industry have been documented. In a 2016 article from the Denver Post, the writer noted that about 75% of the extra virgin olive oil sold in the US is often diluted with lower quality olive oil. The article goes on to note that a 2010 University of California study found that 69% of imported oils sold in California stores at that time failed to meet international standards for olive oil.

Not only will the authentic, high-quality extra virgin olive oil give you tremendous flavor and variety of that flavor but the fresher, more pungent-tasting oil is higher in polyphenols, which are high in antioxidants.

To be fair, since these exposes, the industry has attempted to improve quality standards. In 2010, the USDA issued the “United States Standards for Grades of Olive Oil and Olive-Pomace Oil.” However, these standards are voluntary. So, producers may choose to seek certification by the USDA as “US Extra Virgin Olive Oil” if they wish, but that it is not mandatory.

Some states have gone further, including California. They have adopted standards recommended by the Olive Oil Commission of California. According this website, “California olive oil handlers who produce 5,000 gallons or more are required by law to participate in the OOCC’s mandatory government sampling and testing program. Producers with less than 5,000 gallons may voluntarily participate in the OOCC’s government sampling program.”

The California Olive Oil Council (a different entity) has a mission to “uphold the highest standards within the olive oil industry through its Seal Certification Program”. The members of COOC must submit their oils for testing and evaluation to ensure it meets the qualifications to be labeled Extra Virgin Olive Oil. Therefore, if you buy an oil with the COOC seal, you can be assured that you are getting the real thing.

What do you do on a daily basis, though, in your kitchen? Authentic, high-quality extra virgin olive oil can be very expensive. If for no other reason, you probably don’t want to use that for all of your oil needs. That is why most of us have other more moderately-priced oils that we use for general cooking use. We save that special oil for vinaigrettes, for dipping and other uses where the flavor shines through.

What is in your kitchen? I looked in my pantry and I have two different olive oils, only one of which is extra virgin. When I looked for the above items, this is what I found. Even though I purchased it from a reputable olive oil retailer, it had no harvest date. (I wonder if this was due to the fact that the oil was brought into the store in a bulk fashion and then bottled and labeled by this particular retailer.) It did list both the country from which the olives were harvested as well as the particular varietals. It was packaged in an appropriate bottle. Since it was a Spanish oil, it did not have COOC certification. All in all, not bad.

The next time I am in my local supermarket, I am going to look for these recommendations. My guess, though, is most of those on the shelf will be sorely lacking. Let me know what you find, not only in the kitchen but also where you shop!

If anyone mentions the word “lard”, the reaction is probably going to be “oh, no”, “absolutely not”, or something similar. It is almost surely going to be a negative comment. Is that negativity justified? That is the subject of this Cooking Tip. Please note that I am not going to discuss the nutritional and dietary concerns about lard, saturated fat or hydrogenated fat. Those are important topics that you should investigate before consuming any solid fats.

Lard is pork fat that has been rendered from the meat by cooking slowly until the fat is melted and then separated from the meat. It is then filtered and chilled. The quality is dependent on the area of the animal that the fat comes from and the method of rendering.

The best kind of lard is leaf lard. This comes from the fat around the animal’s kidneys. It is softer, creamier and smoother than other types of lard. It is the best choice for baking. It is also naturally free of pork flavor.

Unrendered lard – pig fat that has been trimmed from the meat, not melted. It will have a stronger pork taste and probably not suitable for baking or anything where you do not want that flavor element.

Rendered lard – has less strong pork flavor. It has been melted, filtered, clarified and refrigerated for storage. It will be an off-white color and will be softer than processed lard at room temperature.

Processed lard – this is the most commonly available lard and is made by melting, filtering and clarifying pork fat by bleaching and hydrogenating. The former gives the product a pure white color and the latter keeps the lard solid at room temperature. It also most likely will have preservatives. It has no lingering pork flavor but does have a mild, nut-like flavor.

Why might you want to consider using lard?

• Baking – lard has a higher melting point than butter, meaning it stays solid longer in the oven. There is more time for the steam to produce air pockets resulting in flaky pastry. Also, because lard is 100% fat, it contains no water. Water is one of the ingredients that facilitates gluten development. Less gluten means more tender baked goods.
• Sauteing, grilling, frying – lard has a fairly high smoke point (although not as high as some oils) and thus, is particularly suited to frying. Items fried in lard end up very crisp and have less of a tendency to stick.
• Roasting – lard gives a crispy outer crust to such items as roast chicken or roasted potatoes.
• Seasoning cast iron – there are those that say there is nothing better than lard for this task.

Cooks Illustrated tested different brands of lard for taste and how they did in baked goods. They found that some lards created pie doughs that were “light and flaky” while other brands resulted in “sandy and crumbly” doughs. What they found is that the lowest ranking lards had the lowest melting points of those tested. This meant that the lard melted more quickly and thus, less air pockets.

Their testing rated U.S. Dreams as the best artisanal lard. Another recommendation in the non-hydrogenated category was Tenderflake, a Canadian product. A third one was Fatworks Pasture Raised Pork Lard. Although not tested by Cooks Illustrated, Fatworks also carries a leaf lard. One unbleached and non-hydrogenated product that is a bit easier to find in my area is made by Epic.

Because artisanal lard is very difficult to find in most grocery stores, they also looked at supermarket brands and rated Morrell as their favorite. Morrell, though, is not the same product as the pricier, more pure lards. If you really want to cook with lard, I suggest going for the best.

That may mean ordering online or doing a bit of searching in your local stores. There is always the option of rendering your own. Our local butcher shop no longer carries lard due to lack of demand. They recommended that I could just buy the bulk pork fat and render my own. I have not done this so far, but am seriously considering it.

Finally, if you are wondering about substituting lard and other fats, here are the recommendations.

• 1:1 lard for shortening
• For every ½ cup of lard, use ½ cup + 2 Tbsp butter
• 1:1 lard for olive oil
• For 1 cup lard, 7/8 cup vegetable oil
• 1:1 lard for coconut oil

I recently made some Chicken Cornish Pasties and the pastry called for part shortening and part butter. I used Epic’s brand of pork fat in place of the shortening and it did produce a very flaky pastry. Do you use lard? If so, which kind? Have you ever rendered your own? Let me know your experience; I would love to hear about it.

I am teaching a class on how to cook with all those wonderful summer berries – both sweet and savory dishes. One of the recipes is for a Strawberry & Mango Salad with a Champagne Vinaigrette. The latter is made with walnut oil. Walnut oil is only one of a myriad of nut & seed oils and I wonder how many of you use any of them. In this Cooking Tip, I will tell you about some of these delicious oils. I will discuss best uses for the different types as well as their respective smoke points. The lower the smoke point, the less appropriate it is for high heat cooking.

Nut and seed oils are used mostly for flavor. They are considered seasoning oils rather than cooking oils. Some can handle high heats; some cannot. If they are used in hot dishes, they are usually added at the last minute. Most nut and seed oils do not have a long shelf life and so should be purchased in small amounts. They need to be stored in a dark, cool place. Many should be refrigerated.

Walnut
This is a topaz colored oil with a rich/nutty flavor. The best walnut oil is said to be made from walnuts from the Périgord and Dordogne regions in France. As with most of these oils, it does not have a long shelf life and should be kept in a cool, dark place. Some recommend against putting it in the refrigerator as the cold could cause a deterioration in flavor. Not all agree with this, though.

It is wonderful in salad dressings (as in my recipe) but may be used in baking, especially if the item also contains walnuts. It is also nice with poultry, fish or veggies.

Smoke point
Unrefined – 320°F
Semi-refined – 400°F

Almond
This is oil is made from sweet almonds and is pale in color. It is primarily used in baking and confectionary. If heated gently with slivered almonds, it is great to serve with fish or green veggies.

Smoke point – 420°F

Hazelnut
This is a very richly flavored oil that is produced mainly in France. It is paired with very good vinegars for salad dressings or as a marinade for fish/poultry. Its delicate flavor is lost when heated but it can be whisked into a sauce at the very last minute. It can also be used in baked goods in combination with hazelnuts.

Smoke point – 430°F

Peanut
Although peanuts are actually a legume and not a nut, I will list it here. Since it is almost tasteless and usually has a high smoke point, it is good for more general use such as in salads, cooking and frying.

The cold pressed variety has a mild peanut flavor that is good with fruit-flavored vinegars for salad dressings. It also has a lower smoke point then refined peanut oil.

Smoke point
Unrefined — 320°F
Refined – 440-450°F

Pumpkin seed
This oil is either dark brown or green in color and has a pleasant flavor of toasted pumpkin seeds. It is popular in Austria, where most of it is produced. It is used as a last minute seasoning for steamed veggies or fish.

Smoke point — 320°F or less

Sesame oil
All sesame oils are aromatic and the most common are able to withstand high temperatures.

There are three varieties.

European sesame oil is cold-pressed and is light in color and nutty in flavor.

The Asian variety is made from toasted sesame seeds and is darker with a more pronounced flavor.

Middle Eastern sesame oil is lighter in flavor than Asian and has a deep golden color.

Smoke point
Unrefined — 350°F
Semi-refined – 450°F

Pistachio
This oil has a beautiful green color and is usually used in cookies, cake and ice cream.

Smoke point – 250°F

Pecan
Pecan oil is light and mild and is great in baked goods and in dressings, sauces and marinades.

Smoke point – 470°F

Macadamia nut
This oil is very light in color with a mild, buttery taste.

Smoke point – 390°F

I took a look at my regular supermarkets and, without resorting to online sources or specialty stores, I could easily find peanut, sesame, avocado and walnut oils. A couple of stores carried almond oil and occasionally macadamia and pumpkin oil. What can you find in your stores? Let me know.

Even though I could find these oils, not all of them were unrefined. Unrefined oils are less processed and thus, have a fuller flavor and, according to some, more of the healthy antioxidants we seek. However, this also means their smoke point is lower. The choice is up to you.

If you have never tried a nut oil, I encourage you to do so. They are a very nice addition to your culinary arsenal!

In a prior Cooking Tip, I discussed culinary oils in general. In this one, I want to focus on one type in particular – Extra Virgin Olive Oil.

This is one of the most expensive type of culinary oils you will buy and we all like to make sure we get the best for our money. I have done some research on how to pick out a great olive oil and following are what the experts tell us.

Here are certain things to look for.

1. The harvest date – The “Best By” date may be up to 2 years after pressing of the olives. The “Harvest” date is a much better indicator of freshness. Try to pick one with the most recent date, remembering that olives are usually harvested in the fall and winter, meaning the harvest date for what is on the shelf will be the year before.

2. The container – Look for oil that is in a dark container. Light can degrade the oil. Pick an oil where the container protects the oil from the light.

3. Country/Region of origin – Look for where the oil was sourced. Higher quality olive oils will be sourced from one country. Note that wording like “Product of Italy” might only mean that it was shipped from Italy, not necessarily that the olives were grown and harvested in Italy.

   Less pricey & mass market olive oils are often a result of buying cheap bulk oils from all over the world and blending them. This means less quality control over the handling of the oil but it also means these oils lack the distinct flavor that you expect from a good olive oil.

4. The Cultivars – Look for the specific olives that have been harvested. Absence of the area of origin and the cultivars may (though not always) indicate lower quality oil.

If at all possible, taste the oil before purchasing it. This generally means going to a gourmet food store or a shop that specializes in oil. The typical supermarket is not going to offer tastings outside of the rare special event.

The reason that we must be savvy olive oil shoppers is that some deficits in the industry have been documented. In a 2016 article from the Denver Post, the writer noted that about 75% of the extra virgin olive oil sold in the US is often diluted with lower quality olive oil. The article goes on to note that a 2010 University of California study found that 69% of imported oils sold in California stores at that time failed to meet international standards for olive oil.

Not only will the authentic, high-quality extra virgin olive oil give you tremendous flavor and more variety of that flavor but the fresher, more pungent-tasting oil is higher in antioxidant-rich polyphenols.

To be fair, since these exposes, the industry has attempted to improve quality standards. In 2010, the USDA issued the “United States Standards for Grades of Olive Oil and Olive-Pomace Oil.” However, these standards are voluntary. Producers may choose to seek certification by the USDA as “US Extra Virgin Olive Oil” if they wish, but it is not mandatory.

Some states have gone further, including California. They have adopted standards recommended by the Olive Oil Commission of California. According to this website, “California olive oil handlers who produce 5,000 gallons or more are required by law to participate in the OOCC’s mandatory government sampling and testing program. Producers with less than 5,000 gallons may voluntarily participate in the OOCC’s government sampling program.”

The California Olive Oil Council (a different entity) has a mission to uphold “the highest standards within the olive oil industry through its Seal Certification Program”. The members of COOC must submit their oils for testing and evaluation to ensure they meet the qualifications to be labeled Extra Virgin Olive Oil. Therefore, if you buy an oil with the COOC seal, you can be assured that you are getting the real thing.

What do you do on a daily basis, though, in your kitchen? Authentic, high-quality extra virgin olive oil can be very expensive. If for no other reason, you probably don’t want to use that for all of your oil needs. That is why most of us have other more moderately-priced oils that we use for general cooking use. We save that special oil for vinaigrettes, for dipping and other uses where the flavor shines through.

What is in your kitchen? Take a look at your olive oil bottles and let me know what you see. I looked in my pantry and I have two different olive oils, only one of which is extra virgin. When I looked for the above items on the extra virgin label, this is what I found. Even though I purchased it from a reputable olive oil retailer, it had no harvest date. (I wonder if this was due to the fact that the oil was brought into the store in a bulk fashion and then bottled and labeled by this particular retailer.) It did list both the country from which the olives were harvested as well as the particular varietals. It was packaged in an appropriate bottle. Since it was a Spanish oil, it did not have COOC certification. All in all, not bad.

The next time I am in my local supermarket, I am going to look for these recommendations. My guess, though, is most of those on the shelf will be sorely lacking. Let me know what you find, not only in the kitchen but also where you shop!