Last week’s Cooking Tip was all about the differences between Bleached and Unbleached all-purpose flour. In this week’s Tip, I want to discuss the same topic but as it relates to cake flour.

Cake flour is a fine-textured flour made from soft wheat. It has a very low protein content, usually around 7-8% as opposed to 10-12% for all-purpose flour. There is also something called pastry flour. It also made from soft wheat but has a protein content just above that of cake flour – about 8-9%.

Since cakes are meant to be tender, you want to reduce the gluten content. This is the purpose of the low-protein cake flour. Almost all cake flours are bleached with chlorine & bromated. (For a review of this topic as it relates to AP flour, see last week’s Tip.) Cook’s Illustrated’s science editor explains that “this process damages the starch molecules and allows for greater absorption of moisture and fat by the flour, which in turn results in moister, more tender baked goods.”

Recently, though, some manufacturers have begun to offer unbleached cake flour. A major player in this market is King Arthur Flour. This product supposedly simulates this moisture attraction without any chemicals. There were two other companies offering unbleached cake flour: Hodgson Mill and Bob’s Red Mill. Since writing this, the former company was sold and I know longer see this product as available. The latter recently discontinued their unbleached cake flour. (They do continue to carry unbleached pastry flours and they recommend their Unbleached White Fine Pastry Flour as a substitute.) I will still mention it below as it was the flour that was tested by one expert. August 2024 update – Although the Bob’s Red Mill pastry flour is no longer on their website, it appears you can still purchase it from Amazon and a few other online outlets.

When Cook’s Illustrated tested the King Arthur product, they found it performed just as well as bleached cake flour. Stella Parks of Serious Eats had a differing viewpoint. In this article, she lists a number of advantages of bleached (chlorinated) cake flour. Note, though, that her testing was only with angel food cake.

She states that the bleached cake flour is not only whiter in color but is also “conditioned”. The chlorine slows the rate of starch gelatinization in flour, thus improving gas retention. This results in a higher rise. It also raises the temperature of protein denaturation, once again giving the cake more time to rise. Additionally, it lowers the pH of cake flour from an average of 5.9 to about 4.8. The lower pH inhibits browning, an aspect that is great for an angel food cake.

When testing the unbleached cake flour, she found that the batter soaked up excess moisture and set too quickly. This inhibited the rise of the cake. Again, the discussion was only about angel food’s cake.

The Cake Blog did a testing of 6 different flours in making a traditional (not angel food) cake. This tester had a very positive view of the unbleached cake flours. A short summary of the results is shown in the following chart.

Type of Flour	Height of cake	Texture	Color	Flavor
Unbleached AP flour	Shortest	Coarse	Deep ivory	Wheaty
Unbleached pastry flour	Moderate	Mildly coarse	Pale ivory	Mildly sweet
King Arthur unbleached cake flour	Medium	Med-fine crumb	Medium	Mildly sweet
Bob’s Red Mill unbleached cake flour	Medium-tall	Fine crumb	Pale	Mildly sweet
Softasilk bleached cake flour	Tallest	Fine crumb	Pale	Mildly sweet

I must add one caution for those of us at high altitude. Baking cakes at higher altitude can certainly be a challenge. I have written a Cooking Tip on this problem. Using cake flour with its lower protein content may hamper getting good results at altitude. Some experts recommend staying totally away from cake flour. Others will use a mixture of cake flour & AP flour. Some recommend using half & half while others recommend 1/3 cake flour and 2/3 AP flour.

What to make of all this? If you want a great angel food cake, I would probably recommend going with a good bleached cake flour. If not, give one of the unbleached cake flours a try. Let me know what you think.

Flour is one of those pantry stables that most of us could not live without. I wrote an earlier Cooking Tip on all the different kinds of flours we have available to us. If you did not receive it and wish to read it, email me and I will forward it to you. For this current Cooking Tip, I want to focus on the difference between Bleached and Unbleached all-purpose flour. Cake flour is a different product, which I will address in an upcoming Tip.

There are two aspects to the debate on these flours. First, there are health concerns related to the use of chemicals added to flour. This is something that I leave to you to decide for yourself. The other aspect is how the flours act in our kitchens. That is what I will be discussing.

According to Harold McGee in On Food & Cooking, “freshly milled flour makes a weak gluten, a slack dough and a dense loaf.” These properties improve as the flour ages. Doughs made with aged flour will have more elasticity and structure.

Besides the structural differences, freshly milled flour tends to be yellowish in color. The aging process helps to change the color to white. Flour can be aged naturally but it takes 1-2 months. As millers began to understand this natural process, they began to use bleaching agents to chemically whiten the flour.

Some of the bleaching agents are banned in other countries. Although there may be limits on amounts, in the US, the FDA allows the use of many such chemicals. For a list, see this link.

The bleaching process does compromise some of the flour’s nutrients and results in a lower protein content, but these are often added back to the flour.

Another fact of which to be aware is that unbleached flour may also be treated with chemicals, usually potassium bromate, but it is treated with far less chemicals than bleached flour.

Bromated flour is flour which has been enriched with potassium bromate, a maturing agent which promotes gluten development in doughs. It is often used in bread production as it is said to make the bread stronger, more elastic and with bigger rises. It also bleaches the flour slightly. It is often used in low protein flours, which do not develop sufficient gluten. Some commercial bakers use this type of flour because it yields dependable results, and it makes a stronger, more elastic dough which can stand up to commercial baking tools. Ascorbic acid has replaced potassium bromate as a food additive in a number of areas as there is some concern that potassium bromate is a potential carcinogen. It has been banned in some countries and in California, the presence of potassium bromate requires a warning under Proposition 65. That regulation mandates warnings about the presence of chemicals that have been shown to cause cancer, birth defects or reproductive harm. The FDA lists it as an approved optional ingredient in bread.

In terms of how the flours act in our kitchen, the bleaching process produces a whiter and finer ground flour, which leads to baked goods that are softer in texture and brighter in color. Although not required, it is often recommended for cookies, pie crusts, quick breads, muffins & pancakes. Unbleached flour will have an off-white color and will not be as fine in texture. It is recommended when you want more structure such as yeast breads and pastries.

According to Cook’s Illustrated, “In baking tests, bleached flour was criticized for tasting flat or having ‘off’ flavors (texturally, the flours behaved the same). These characteristics, however, were much harder to detect in recipes with a high proportion of ingredients other than flour, such as cornbread or oatmeal cookies.” They did not find a discernable taste difference in savory applications such as thickening a sauce.

Cooking Light quoted Sharon Davis, of the Home Baking Association staff, “The difference between bleached and unbleached flour is basically indiscernible to the home baker. The bleaching process helps commercial bakers with consistency. Spread, texture, volume, and quality of grain must be exact each and every time but for the home baker, the only thing bleach has to offer is a whiter bread or cookie. “

They also did a testing among a panel of Cooking Light food editors and test kitchen professionals by testing four different recipes in a side-by-side comparison using bleached and unbleached flour. They tested sugar cookies, vanilla pound cake, buttermilk biscuits and brioche. The testers were unanimous in concluding that substituting unbleached flour did not compromise the result. In some cases, the tasters actually preferred the result with unbleached flour. They detected a slightly nutty, earthier flavor in the buttermilk biscuits made with unbleached flour as well as a slightly fluffier texture. They concluded that for the home baker, “bleached flour merely offers visual appeal – a whiter, brighter flour that only sometimes translates in the final baking product.”

In today’s stores, you can easily find unbleached flours. For some companies such as King Arthur Flour and Bob’s Red Mill, unbleached is the standard. King Arthur states that none of their flours contain any bleach, bromate, or artificial preservatives. Bob’s Red Mill says that their white flours are not bromated or bleached. Their white flour does contain malted barley flour, an ingredient they say has the same effect as bromating without adding chemicals. It does add a little extra sugar, which they say produces a stronger gluten reaction. Although King Arthur does not mention this, a look at the ingredient list shows that they also add malted barley flour. Bob’s Red Mill organic flour does not contain malted barley flour but King Arthur’s organic flour still lists this as an ingredient.

I tend to use King Arthur’s All Purpose flour and have not had a problem with it. What about you? What do you use? Have you noticed a difference in bleached vs unbleached flour? Why do you choose one over the other?

Let me know and as always —- Happy Baking!

A staple in our pantries is some sort of stock, usually chicken, but there is also beef, seafood and vegetarian. If you are a bit more ambitious, that stock may be in your freezer rather than your pantry as you made it yourself (Hurray for you!) Or, is what you have broth rather than stock? Or, are they the same thing? That is the subject of this Cooking Tip. Let’s demystify these terms although I will warn you that manufacturers often use these different terms willy nilly.

After perusing definitions found in culinary reference sources, I would summarize the difference as follows.

• Stock – This is a flavorful liquid made from simmering bones and aromatics with little or no seasoning. As discussed below, stocks are usually simmered anywhere between 30 minutes and 24 hours. It is meant to be used for making sauces, soups, gravies, etc. It is at that stage that seasoning is used, as needed in the final dish.

• Broth – This is also a flavorful liquid but is made from simmering meat (may also have a few bones) and aromatics. Broths are usually seasoned and have a more pronounced flavor as they are based on meat rather than bones. Because of the lack of bones, there is an absence of gelatin resulting in much less body than stocks. Broths are usually simmered a much shorter time than stocks, under 2 hours. They are intended to be served as is and are, therefore, seasoned to taste.

These definitions obviously work for a meat-based stock/broth. With a vegetarian version, there is less of a distinction other than the seasoning and the end purpose – consuming on its own or as an ingredient in another dish.

Stocks may also be classified as white or brown – depending on whether or not the bones/aromatics are roasted before making the stock.

• White stock is made from raw or blanched bones and aromatics.
• Brown stock calls for roasting the ingredients, which results in darker flavor and color of the stock.

Another discussion is around whether you make/freeze homemade stock or use store-bought. As I write this, I am making a chicken stock from all the bones I have accumulated from holiday cooking and even before that. However, I try to always have store-bought in my pantry because when I run out of homemade, it is not something I can quickly make. Having a good quality store-bought stock in your pantry is a good idea.

If you want to try to make homemade stock, it is not difficult. It just takes some time, some babysitting the mixture and remembering a few key items. First, put your bones in a stock pot and cover with cool water by no more than 2 inches. Slowly bring it up to a very mild simmer. The faster it comes to a boil and the more vigorous it boils, the more impurities are brought out, which can be deleterious both to flavor and clarity. The water should be at a bare simmer. The French call it “frémir”, which means “to tremble”. There should just be an occasional bubble bursting to the surface – no more. Adjust your heat to keep it at this level.

A second key is that you should periodically skim any fat or impurities off the top of the mixture. This will help in achieving a clear liquid.

Most stock recipes have you add a mirepoix (if you do not recall what that is, see this Tip I wrote earlier.) This should be added only in the last hour of cooking.

Continue to simmer for the appropriate amount of time, tasting as you go. Stock can be made from any type of bone: chicken, beef, fish. It can even be shrimp shells. The method mainly differs in how long it is simmered. I was taught the following in culinary school although you may find slight variations from other sources.

• Vegetable & Seafood stock – 30 minutes-1 hour
• Chicken stock – 4-6 hours
• Duck stock – 6-8 hours
• Lamb/Pork stock – 8-12 hours
• Beef/Veal stock – 18-24 hours

When finished, be sure to strain thoroughly either through a chinois or a cheesecloth-lined colander. For food safety reasons, cool quickly to under 40°F. Apportion into small containers and freeze for future use.

For those good store-bought stocks, I perused numerous tasting tests. Some, unfortunately, were from quite a few years ago. As companies do change their recipes, some of the older taste tests may not still be valid. As with anything, different testers rated differently. So, I will try to summarize for you as best I can.

Before I do that, though, I want to make you aware of one concern with many store-bought stocks. They tend to very high in sodium. As I mentioned above, home-made stocks are generally not seasoned to allow you to get the seasoning just right in the finished dish. If you are using a store-bought stock, you need to be very careful about adding any salt as it starts out with a significant amount just in the stock.

There are reduced sodium stocks readily available. I encourage you to taste them to see if that might suit your purposes just fine. Overall, I have seen the sodium content for 8 ounces vary from a low of 20 mg to a high of 860 mg. That is a difference that will certainly affect your final dish.

One other caveat on the ratings. They only test well-known national brands. They do not test store brands, including Costco or Sam’s Club. Those are ones you may want to taste test on your own.

Among the highest rated store-bought stocks are:

• Swanson’s Stocks – both regular and less sodium varieties
• Progresso Reduced Sodium Chicken Broth
• Trader Joe’s Organic Low-Sodium Chicken Broth
• Kitchen Basics Natural Chicken Stock

Among those rated as “OK in a pinch” are:

• Imagine Free-Range Low Sodium Chicken Broth

Some were rated as very mediocre at best:

• Simply Balanced Low-Sodium Chicken Broth
• Whole Foods 365 Organic Chicken Broth

A couple were consistently rated poor:

• Pacific Organic Free Range Low Sodium Chicken Broth
• College Inn Chicken Broth

I suspect all of us have some stock in our kitchen but I wonder how many of you have homemade stock. Let me know if you do. Whether it is home-made or store-bought, it is an essential item. Use it not only to make soups but also to add more flavor to your sauces. You may also want to cook your rice/grains in stock rather than water – or a mixture of both. Have fun with your stocks – or broths!

Welcome to a new year of cooking and baking and eating! This month I will be teaching a class on Spanish Tapas (if that sounds fun, contact me for more info.) The people who have engaged me wanted at least one sweet bite. I will be making a Spanish Flourless Almond Cookie. This particular recipe called for using blanched, slivered almonds and grinding them (with other ingredients) in your food processor.  I wondered why they did not just call for almond flour or almond meal. As I thought about this, I decided a discussion of almonds would make a great Cooking Tip to start out this new year.

• Whole almonds – almonds in their whole state
• Sliced almonds – almonds that have been thinly sliced before packaging
• Slivered almonds – almonds that have been cut into “slivers”
• Natural almonds – almonds that still have their skins intact
• Blanched almonds – almonds that have had their skins removed
• Almond flour
• Almond meal

It may be different in your supermarket but where I normally shop, the whole almonds are always “natural” or “raw”, not blanched. This is also true for sliced almonds whereas slivered are more likely to be blanched. Of course, if you shop online, you will be able to find each of the kinds of almonds in raw or blanched.

Which kind you use will depend on what your recipe calls for. Do you want the almonds whole or in pieces? You can easily chop whole almonds into pieces but it would be much for difficult to get the thin slices or slivered shapes in your home kitchen.

Do you want the color and texture of the almond skin? If so, go with raw almonds. If not, you need blanched almonds. In my area, if I want blanched almonds, I have two choices. One, I can buy slivered almonds, which are normally blanched. Or, I can buy raw almonds and remove their skins myself. To do this, place the almonds in a bowl. Pour in boiling water to cover the almonds. Let the almonds sit for no longer than 1 minute to preserve their crispness. Drain the almonds and rinse under cold water. Pat the almonds dry. Pinch one end of the almonds and they will slip out of their skin. One note, be sure your almonds have not been roasted or this process will not easily work.

Let’s turn now to ground almond products. In the stores, you will most likely find either or both almond flour or almond meal. Labeling of these products is not regulated but almond four is typically made from blanched nuts, while almond meal is most often ground from skin-on nuts. Also, flour is typically ground finer than meal. It is not always straightforward, though, as the store brand at my supermarket labels this product as “Almond Meal Flour”. So, which is it? The description says it is made from blanched almonds and is ground finely. I would think this would be more similar to almond flour rather than meal.

These products are somewhat pricey. At my store they range from $7 to $10 per pound. As with many items, you can make your own. If you want the light color of blanched almonds, you will either have to buy these or go through the process described above to remove the skins. After this process, though, you will want them very dry before grinding. To do this, preheat the oven to 350°. Spread them out on a baking sheet and carefully roast in the oven until they are quite dry, probably about 10 to 15 minutes. You may even turn off the oven and let them sit there all night to dry out even more. When the almonds are toasted and quite dry, it is time to grind them.

Most frequently, instructions will recommend a food processor. If you do this, do not fill the bowl more than half-full. Pulse them rather than turn the processor on fully. You do not want to end up with almond butter. This method works fine but the resulting product will not be as fine as almond flour you buy. It will be more on the side of almond meal. Feel free to use a sieve to remove the large pieces, which may be pulsed again.

Others say that the food processor does not work as well as other methods to get a fine, airy product.  Some recommend a nut grater, which looks similar to a hand-cranked cheese grater. After feeding the nuts into the hopper and cranking the handle, a fine-textured nut flour is produced. Since I would suspect most of us do not own one of these, a cheese grater may be used. Use the smallest blade with cold, but not frozen, almonds. Still others recommend either a spice grinder or a blender over the food processor.

Besides the limitation of home equipment, there may be another reason why your home-ground almond flour is not as fine and silky as that you purchase. According to some sources, the commercial almond meal undergoes removal of oils, also called de-fatted. This is not a step we can do in our home kitchens. This is not universal, though. I contacted Bob’s Red Mill, and they responded that they do not defat their almonds.

Almonds have a long shelf life if stored correctly. They should be place in an airtight container and stored in a cool, dry place. Other storage tips include avoiding exposure to strong aromas or direct sunlight. For longer term storage, the freezer may be used. Be especially careful with your blanched almonds or ground products.

Enjoy a new year of cooking and baking. I’m sure almonds, in whatever form, will be a part of those endeavors!