Bread – Get it on your holiday table in record time!

October 18, 2023September 17, 2023 culinaryjourneysllc

In the prior two Cooking Tips, I discussed general freezing tips that you can use to destress the holidays by making items ahead. Last week’s Tip delved into how to freeze pies before the holidays. In this Tip, I want to look at another staple on our holiday tables – Bread.

Many experts do not recommend freezing unbaked bread dough as the freezer can kill the yeast. Many people do this successfully, although they do take the following precautions.

Adding additional yeast, anywhere from 20-100% more.
Using active dry yeast rather than instant yeast.
Freezing as quickly as possible. Ensure your freezer is no higher than 0°F, and do not open your freezer door until the dough is solid.
Freeze no longer than 2-3 weeks.

For the holidays, most of us will make dinner rolls rather than full loaves of bread. Here is advice for you on different ways to make rolls ahead of time.

Freezing unbaked dough balls

King Arthur Flour recommends the following technique.

Make your dough with cool (not lukewarm) liquid. This allows the yeast to stay in a dormant state longer and protect against damage.
Knead, portion and shape the dough. By not allowing the dough to rise before shaping, it is another way to minimize yeast activity.
Place dough balls in a pan lined with parchment or wax paper. Cover with plastic wrap and place in freezer.
Freeze balls until very hard.
Place in a freezer bag and back in the freezer.
For serving, remove from the freezer and place in a lightly greased pan. Cover and allow to rise. Set them in a warm area if you wish for them to rise more quickly. To slow down the rising, place in a cooler area. This will take 4-5 hours.
You may also take it out the night before and let it thaw in the refrigerator.
Bake and serve.

Freezing baked rolls

Make and bake rolls according to your recipe.
Allow to cool completely and wrap tightly.
Place in freezer.
Allow them to thaw at room temperature overnight and serve either as is or after heating in a 300°F oven for a few minutes.

Freezing the entire batch of dough

Make the dough, flatten it into a disk or square, wrap and freeze.
Allow to thaw overnight in the refrigerator.
Shape, allow to rise and bake. Because the larger quantity of dough will take longer to freeze and thaw, there may be more yeast damage, resulting in denser rolls.
Reheat in a 300°F oven for about 8-10 minutes.

You do not need to freeze if you only need a few days of planning.

Make the dough and allow it to rise.
Place in a storage container with enough space to allow expansion, cover and place in the refrigerator. When ready to bake, remove from refrigerator, shape into rolls and bake. Plan on an additional 20 minutes or so.
May also shape risen dough into dough balls and place those in the refrigerator. Remove from the refrigerator and allow to get puffy for about 90 minutes. Bake as in the recipe.

Loaf bread

Breadtopia recommends leaving your freshly baked artisan loaf uncovered and cut side down on a cutting board for two days. They feel this keeps the crust crispy and the interior soft. After that, it is best to cover it. For baguettes, they cover the day after baking. Soft sandwich bread should be covered as soon as it has cooled completely.

Freezing bread dough meant for loaves.

Make according to the recipe, but follow the above yeast recommendations.
Allow bread to undergo the first rise.
Punch down, knead and shape into loaves.
Place in bread pans lined with greased plastic wrap.
Place pans in the freezer and allow to freeze for about 10-12 hours.
Remove from pans, wrap tightly and return to freezer.
Remove from the freezer the night before you want to bake them and allow them to thaw.
Place in a greased loaf pan and allow the bread to undergo the second rise.
Bake as specified in the recipe.

To freeze loaf bread

For an entire loaf, wrap tightly after cooling and place in a plastic bag.
Defrost in a 325°F oven until the internal temperature reaches room temperature level.
If an entire loaf is too much to be eaten after removing it from the freezer, slice it into wedges of the right size or individual pieces.
To defrost, toast or gently microwave. Allowing the bread slices to come naturally to room temperature increases how quickly it will stale.

Now, you know how to make ahead two holiday mainstays – pies and bread. That has to make your holiday cooking easier!

Make-ahead pies – help to destress the holidays.

October 11, 2023October 11, 2023 culinaryjourneysllc

As we are speeding towards the holidays, last week’s Cooking Tip was about freezing food in general. In this Cooking Tip, I want to concentrate on an item that will be on almost all our holiday tables – Holiday Pies.

As I mentioned in the last Cooking Tip, you may not have freezer space for whole pies. If you do, the questions are: what sorts of pie freeze well, are there any that you shouldn’t freeze and should you bake before freezing?

America’s Test Kitchen tested several different pies in different states. Although the following are their findings, most pie experts agree with them. When there are other options, I will discuss them.

Fruit pies

Freeze unbaked. They found that if baked before freezing, the pie crusts tended to be soggy when thawed. The filling did not taste as vibrant as it would have if baked and never frozen. On the other hand, pies that had been frozen unbaked were found to be indistinguishable from freshly baked pies.
They recommend freezing the pie until solid before wrapping it in plastic wrap as it leads to less damage to the crust.
Their technique:
- Assemble the pie.
- Do not apply an egg wash or sugar.
- Freeze, uncovered, until firm.
- Wrap in a double layer of plastic wrap and then in foil. Return to freezer.
- Write the recipe’s original instructions on a label and affix it to the outside.
- Freeze no longer than two months.
To bake a frozen fruit pie:
- Do not thaw.
- Brush crust with egg wash and sugar sprinkles, if desired.
- Bake at the specified temperature, but increase the time by 10-15 minutes.
- If the crust starts to brown too much, cover it with a pie shield.

Pumpkin pie

Although some chefs say you can successfully freeze pumpkin pies, most sources (including America’s Test Kitchen) caution against freezing these pies. The custard filling turns out grainy and wet and it very likely will have a soggy crust.
They found the same results whether frozen baked or unbaked.
The science of this has to do with the egg proteins unraveling and forming a gel that holds water. Since there is a lot of water in the dairy and pumpkin, this leads to ice crystals and unpleasant results. They recommend finding a recipe that does not use eggs if you want to freeze your pumpkin (or other custard or cream) pies.

Pecan pie

America’s Test Kitchen found that pecan pies froze well, either baked or unbaked. Even though there are eggs, there is very little water, as in pumpkin pies, minimizing the problems one finds when freezing pumpkin pies.
Their technique:
- Unbaked
  - Pour filling into a pre-baked shell, cool and wrap as above.
  - To bake, do not thaw, but increase baking time by about 30 minutes.
- Baked
  - Cool and wrap as above.
  - To serve, unwrap and thaw on the counter, which could take up to 3 hours. You may also allow it to thaw in the refrigerator overnight.
Freeze for up to 2 months.

Freezing pie filling

Another option for fruit pies is to make and freeze your filling. Later, thaw it overnight in the refrigerator and continue with making your pie.
Michigan State University Extension recommends the following technique.
- Add ½ tablespoon of cornstarch or 1-2 tablespoons of flour to the filling.
- Line your pie pan with foil, pour in the filling and freeze in the pan.
- Once firm, remove from pan, wrap and return to the freezer.
They also recommend adding the same amount of cornstarch or flour to fruit pies that you are going to freeze unbaked.
An additional dusting of cornstarch on the pastry before adding the filling helps decrease sogginess.

Freezing pie crusts

A third option is to make and freeze the crust. There are three ways.

Make and portion your pie pastry.
- Form into disks and wrap securely.
- When it is time to make a pie, allow the crust to thaw, roll out and continue with making your pie.
Roll out your pie crust and freeze either baked or unbaked.
- Unbaked crusts will last in the freezer for about 2-3 months.
- Baked crusts last about 4-6 months.
For unbaked crusts, do not thaw. Bake them directly out of the freezer.
Thaw a baked crust by allowing it to stand at room temperature or heat in a 350°F oven for about 5 minutes.

Baking frozen pies

As mentioned above, do not thaw your frozen pies before baking.
You will need extra baking time. Most sources recommend adding anywhere between 15 and 30 minutes. However, it may take more or less. Watch your pie and bake until the filling is bubbling.

With these make-ahead tips for your holiday pies, you can minimize the stress of getting that holiday dinner on the table.

Cooking Tips · Techniques

Your freezer – a friend for the holidays!

October 4, 2023September 17, 2023 culinaryjourneysllc

As I write this, it is only the middle of September. Blink your eyes, though, and the holidays will be right around the corner. Have you ever thought about utilizing your freezer, if you have space, to make the holidays less stressful? That is the subject of this and subsequent Cooking Tips. I will first address general advice about freezing food. This will be followed with more specific advice on freezing some of those items that are going to be on our holiday table.

The first step in this strategy is to know how to safely freeze food as well as what you can freeze.

Freezer Advice

Freezer space is often limited. Therefore, the more items you can freeze in a bag that can lie flat, the more you will be able to stash in your freezer.
Opt for bags designed for freezing as they protect the food better.
No matter what freezer container you use, it should be as airtight as possible. Another advantage of bags is that getting all the air out of them is easier. The air causes freezer burn, which leads to moisture loss, thus harming flavor and texture.
Portion the food in quantities that you will need. That may be in individual portions or the size you want to thaw for your family’s dinner.
Label the containers with the identity of the contents, the date and any specific reheating instructions you might need.
For the best quality, the food should be frozen as quickly as possible. This prevents large ice crystals from forming, which can seriously damage the quality of the food when thawed. The FDA recommends not to stack packages to be frozen but to spread them out in a single layer. Once frozen, stack them to maximize the freezer space.

How to thaw – there are four basic methods.

Thaw overnight in the refrigerator. This method takes the most time but gives you the best results. A rule of thumb is to allow one day of thawing time for every 5 pounds of weight.
Thaw by cooking. This works well for small pieces of food, including ground or chopped meat. Be aware that the cooking process will take longer to cook.
Thaw in the microwave. This is not a great method for large food items, such as whole chickens. It does work well for smaller items. One risk of this method is that you can accidentally cook, not just thaw, the food item.
Thaw in Cold Water. This method takes about 20 to 30 minutes per pound of food. You must use waterproof packaging such as an airtight bag and change the water every 30 minutes.
Prevent pathogen growth. Freezing food does not kill pathogens; it just inactivates them. As the food thaws and warms, the pathogens can start multiplying. This is the reason you are cautioned against thawing food at room temperature.

Refreezing food

One question that frequently arises is whether you can refreeze food after it has been thawed. According to the FDA, you may refreeze previously cooked foods that have been thawed in the refrigerator, but you should do it within 3-4 days. Although it is generally safe, refreezing can lead to deteriorated quality due to moisture loss during thawing. For food safety, do not refreeze any foods left outside the refrigerator longer than 2 hours or 1 hour in temperatures above 90 °F.

Freezer storage time

Freezing will keep food safe almost indefinitely, although there are recommended storage times for the best quality. Here is a chart from the FDA for reference.

Item	Months
Bacon and Sausage	1 to 2
Casseroles	2 to 3
Egg whites or egg substitutes	12
Frozen Dinners and Entrees	3 to 4
Gravy, meat or poultry	2 to 3
Ham, Hotdogs and Lunchmeats	1 to 2
Meat, uncooked roasts	4 to 12
Meat, uncooked steaks or chops	4 to 12
Meat, uncooked ground	3 to 4
Meat, cooked	2 to 3
Poultry, uncooked whole	12
Poultry, uncooked parts	9
Poultry, uncooked giblets	3 to 4
Poultry, cooked	4
Soups and Stews	2 to 3
Wild game, uncooked	8 to 12

The FDA also recommends smelling the food after thawing and discarding any food that smells off. If only the appearance is affected, consider using the item in soups or stews.

What foods can you freeze?

The FDA tells us that we can safely freeze any food except for whole eggs or canned foods. However, just because you can doesn’t mean you should. Certain foods do not freeze well in terms of palatability. One source had an excellent idea. Walk down the frozen food aisle to see what foods are there. That will give you a great starting point on what will do well frozen.

Rather than list foods that do well in the freezer, it might be better to talk about those that don’t.

Cream-based sauces – these tend to break and become grainy when they thaw.
Mayonnaise and mayo-based foods – mayonnaise is an emulsion that will separate when frozen.
Hard-boiled eggs – freezing leads to tough egg whites that become watery when thawed.
Salads and slaws – produce with a high water content (lettuces, cucumbers, oranges, etc.) becomes mushy when thawed.
Custardy desserts – although these can be frozen, they become grainy and watery upon thawing.
Dairy products – dairy-based foods like yogurts and soft cheeses can have an unpleasant texture after freezing.

So, how does this help you with your holiday planning? Start by asking yourself what you usually serve for the holidays. Those items that will freeze should be made ahead to save you time later. Here are some ideas.

Pies

You may not have space to freeze whole pies but you can make and freeze the pie dough. Or, instead of making a regular-sized pie, how about making mini pies or tarts and freezing them? More on freezing pies in the next Cooking Tip.

Bread

Many types of bread and rolls freeze very well. Or, you can freeze the unbaked dough balls and bake them when you need them. Stay tuned for a Cooking Tip just on this topic.

Cakes

You may not want to freeze an entire cake but how about making “cake rolls” such as a pumpkin roll and freezing it. That takes up less space and they do beautifully in the freezer.

Meals

Think about meals to serve your family when you are too busy to cook. Your freezer will look different than mine, but I always have containers of chili and/or soups and cornbread to take out for a quick meal. I also have packages of sausage and peppers, but you could have lasagna or similar dishes. I usually have pizza dough stored away. I try to use up the last of the summer produce by turning it into something that will make my life easier in the coming weeks. If you have basil, make some pesto, freeze in ice cube trays and then put in a freezer bag for a touch of summer during the cold winter. Excess tomatoes can easily be turned into tomato sauce for later use in pasta or on pizza.

Spending a little time thinking about what you can make ahead and freeze is one way to make the holidays more enjoyable.

Cooking Tips · Ingredients · Techniques

Creole & Cajun cooking – aren’t they the same thing?

September 27, 2023August 31, 2023 culinaryjourneysllc

I will soon be teaching a class on New Orleans cuisine. When you think of food from this area, what types of food come to mind? For many of you, I suspect you would say Cajun and Creole. Just what is the difference in these terms, if anything? That is the subject of this Cooking Tip.

To understand the difference between Cajun and Creole food, we need to look at the history of the people. The history lesson will be a bit of a summary rather than an in-depth look.

Creole

Creole means “native to the colony” and is said to have come from the European colonization of Louisiana. France claimed this land in the 1600s and gave it to Spain in the 1700s. During this time, the term “Creole” was applied to children born in North America, no matter their descent. The term became more important after the Louisiana Purchase in 1803 as it distinguished those living there from new arrivals.

People who claim this heritage come from all sorts of backgrounds. They were in this area before the Louisiana Purchase and tried to maintain their languages, culture, food and faith. Most scholars say the term refers to birthplace, not a race.

Cajun

This is derived from the word “Acadian”. They were French colonists who settled in the Canadian provinces (Nova Scotia and New Brunswick) in the 1600s. The settlers named the region “Acadia,” and they were known as “Acadians.” When the British threatened to expel the Acadians unless they pledged allegiance to the King of England during the 1700s, they refused. As they were removed, they moved southward to Louisiana.

These people were poor and lived rural lives. Their language was a unique dialect of French that differed from those who had arrived in this area from France. This kept them somewhat isolated, and they were treated as inferior people.

These terms – Creole and Cajun – also came to describe cuisines. Although they share similarities, there are also differences. One of the most significant differences people will always note is that Creole cuisine uses tomatoes, and proper Cajun food does not.

Creole Food

This type of food was born in the kitchens of aristocrats, with slave cooks mixing their cooking techniques and ingredients with those preferred by the European colonists. The people of this area could afford imported ingredients as well as dairy. This led to richer and more elegant dishes. In summary, Creole food can be described in the following ways.

More refined
The roux is based on butter and flour
Uses more tomatoes, shrimp, oysters and crab
Seasoning is more spice-based (as opposed to herb-based)
City cooking with influences from Spain, Africa, Germany, Italy and the West Indies combined with native ingredients.

Cajun Food

The food was borne of very frugal practices, such as using every part of the animal that could be used. From these butchered animals, they made tasso (a type of heavily seasoned pork or beef), andouille sausage (a spicy pork sausage) and boudin (a sausage made from pork, rice, various vegetables & seasonings). Rice was also prominent as it was one of the most abundant crops in Louisiana, and crawfish was eaten due to the water sources.

Here is a summary of Cajun food.

More rustic, home-cooking rich with local ingredients
The roux is based on oil or lard and flour
Very well-seasoned food with an emphasis on herbs
Contains more pork and crawfish
Country food

While there are these differences, there are also some similarities.

Holy Trinity – both cuisines use this version of the French mirepoix as the base of many dishes. Rather than the traditional mixture of onions, celery and carrots, the Holy Trinity uses green peppers, onions and celery.
Spice – many people associate these cuisines with spicy food. Although they can be spicy, they are better described as very flavorful.
Roux – because of the French influences, both Creole and Cajun cuisines use rouxs in their dishes although as noted above, Creole is more likely to use butter and Cajun tends towards lard or oil.
Rice – this grain is prominent in both cuisines.

As opposed to many countries, it is hard to say that the US has a particular type of cuisine. Rather, it has many regional cuisines. Cajun and Creole are one of these and now you know the difference!

Cooking Tips · Ingredients

Cantaloupes – Try the different varieties

September 20, 2023August 30, 2023 culinaryjourneysllc

Cantaloupes are my absolute favorite fruit to feast upon during the summer. Because the melons in the supermarket are often not ripe and are somewhat tasteless, I am happy that my husband grows them for me. This also allows me to enjoy different types of cantaloupes I cannot get at the stores. Some stores have sold some of these other varieties in recent years, and I encourage you to buy them if you can find them. In this Cooking Tip, I want to explore cantaloupes to help you pick the best. Of course, nothing beats the flavor of a melon picked off the vine when ripe. If you do not have the luxury of doing that, read on for some varieties to search out.

Most of the US cantaloupes are grown in California, followed by Arizona. They are, though, grown in other states in limited quantities. These states are Georgia, South Carolina, Florida, Texas, Indiana, Illinois, Pennsylvania, Colorado and Maryland.

The classic cantaloupe we see in our stores is Cucumis melo Reticulatus, which refers to the net-like appearance of the skin. They can be seen in all food markets during the summer months. For some stores, that is all you will see. Many other varieties can be grown in your garden, but you will probably only see one or two other types in the store. Here are a few you might be able to find.

Tuscan melon

This melon is a cultivar from two Italian melons. In the US, Tuscan-style melons were introduced by Dulcinea Farms (now owned by Pacific Trellis Fruit) in 2004. Subsequently, the company also introduced Tuscan Style Extra Sweet, which they say is an improved version.

They look similar to our standard cantaloupe but usually have more prominent green or yellow stripes on the exterior. They have a sweeter flavor than the regular cantaloupe. Also, the flesh becomes softer and sweeter as the stripes change from dark green to lighter green to tan.

Charentais melon

As the name implies, this is a French heirloom variety. It is said to have originated in the Charentes region of France. Being associated with the French town of Cavaillon, which holds an annual festival (Fête des Melons), it is sometimes called the Cavaillon melon. Most pure Charentais melons are grown in France and are not exported due to the fact that the soft skin and flesh mean the melons do not survive shipping. Therefore, the ones we see in the US are probably a hybrid and have been crossed with North American cantaloupes.

It is usually smaller than the standard cantaloupe, and the flesh is more orange. The exterior varies from grey-green to pale green with dark green stripes. The stripes will darken as it matures, and the exterior will develop a yellow hue.

It is one of the sweetest melons you can buy and is widely touted as the best melon in the world.

Sugar Kiss melons

A hybrid melon that originated in Taiwan, it was bred to have superior flavor and texture. The name comes from the high sugar content, creating a beautiful taste. The texture is one that melts in one’s mouth. Unlike other melons, they are only harvested when ripe.

They are part of a proprietary line of melons called Kiss melons. Other melons in this line are Golden Kiss (a hybrid of the European Charentais), Honey Kiss (a Chinese variety), Summer Kiss (a native of Israel said to be a mixture of cantaloupe and honeydew) and Kiss Limón (sweet and tart with citrus notes).

Until recently, they were easily recognizable in stores as they were packed in blue netting. This year, I found some labeled “Sugar Kiss” but not packed in the netting. The flavor was not as wonderful as the Sugar Kiss from prior years. Besides the taste, what makes me wonder about the melon I purchased is this statement from the growers about why they use the netting. They do not state that they are no longer packing the melons in this manner.

The general advice I wrote in this Cooking Tip on picking fresh fruit does apply to melons, although there are exceptions. This advice is:

Weight – ripe fruit tends to feel heavy compared to its size. If the fruit feels light, it is either unripe or perhaps over-ripe.
Pressure – pressing gently on the fruit should yield some give.
Aroma – ripe fruit should be fragrant but not overpowering.
Color – A light green color on fruit usually indicates that it is not ripe.

Some varieties, such as Sugar Kiss melons, naturally have minimal aroma even when ripe. Also, the lack of a green color may not always be accurate. According to the California Cantaloupes website, the primary type of cantaloupes once grown in California were called “Western Shippers.” Because these cantaloupes produce ethylene, a gas that speeds ripening, they tend to spoil fairly quickly. Due to this, fewer of these have been planted; as of 2022, they say only a few Western Shippers are grown.

The main type of California cantaloupe now grown is a newer variety. These do not emit ethylene, which means a longer shelf life. This also means that they do not give off the same sweet smell. Growers call these LSL (Long Shelf Life) and ESL (Extended Shelf Life), although you will not see them labeled as such in the stores.

California Cantaloupes claim they are sweeter due to a higher sugar content. They do want us to understand some differences that stray from the general advice listed above.

Pressure – the flesh is firmer, and the exterior shell is harder. This helps to achieve a longer shelf life. If the blossom end (the end opposite the stem) begins to show a bit of cracking and gives when gently pressed, it is an indicator of ripeness.
Aroma – they lack that prominent melon aroma. I have personally noticed that today’s cantaloupes do not have a nice aroma, and this may be why.
Color – these new varieties may often have a somewhat green hue. The growers advise us not to be deterred by this slightly green cast.

If you love cantaloupes as much as I do, I hope this information will help you get the best melon possible. If you have never tried other varieties, I encourage you to seek them out. I have faith that they will elevate your melon-eating experience!

Cooking Tips · Ingredients

Baking & Roasting – are they the same thing?

September 13, 2023August 25, 2023 culinaryjourneysllc

In the summer, I love to use my Breville countertop oven. It heats up quickly without heating up the house, uses less energy than my wall ovens, and works great. Among other settings, it has both a “Roast” and a “Bake” setting. I would suspect that most of us think they are the same thing. But are they? That is the subject of this Cooking Tip.

Both of those terms refer to methods of dry heat cooking. Here is another Tip I wrote about these and other dry heat cooking techniques. Here are the definitions of roast and bake according to The New Food Lover’s Companion.

Bake – To cook food with dry heat, as in an oven.
Roast – To oven-cook food in a shallow, uncovered pan.

I did not find that very helpful. I next consulted the Culinary Institute of America’s The Professional Chef. Their definitions were not much better.

Bake – To cook food by surrounding it with dry heat, as in an oven.
Roast – To cook in an oven.

When I delved into the interior of this culinary textbook, there was a bit more information. They explained that both baking and roasting are methods whereby the food is cooked with indirect heat in an oven. They explain that roasting involves cooking with dry, heated air held in a closed environment (an oven.) As the food is heated, the liquid inside the food turns to steam, penetrating the food. In its most common usage, roasting is applied to large cuts of meat that give you multiple portions or whole birds. Often, the meat is seared first in hot fat on the stovetop. Baking is better used for portioned foods that are cooked in the oven. It is typically not preceded by searing.

Chefs who distinguish between these terms point out two differences – the temperature of the oven and the type of food.

Temperature of oven

Roasting generally calls for higher temperatures than baking, often above 400°F.
Baking usually takes place at 375°F or lower.

Type of food

Roasting is called for with meat, poultry or vegetables. These foods all have a solid structure before starting the cooking process.
Baking is recommended for foods that do not have structure before baking, such as cakes and cookies.

Another difference is that roasting is generally done in an uncovered pan. Baked items may or may not be covered during the cooking process.

That may be interesting academically, but what difference does it make practically? Not much. My wall ovens come with a “Bake” setting, which I use 99% of the time. My Breville countertop oven does come with both settings, but when you consult the manual, the instructions for Bake and Roast read extremely similar. A Breville video, though, explains that the “Element IQ” part of these Breville smart ovens causes the heating elements to cycle differently for roasting and baking to compensate for the difference in pans. I must admit that I did not know that.

As summer is exiting and the cooler temperatures of fall and winter arrive, roasting and baking are skills we will probably use more frequently. Unless you have an oven similar to my Breville, I wouldn’t worry too much about the terms. Just concentrate on making delicious dishes to serve to your friends and family!

Cooking Tips · Techniques

Braising – Learn how to be successful!

September 6, 2023September 17, 2023 culinaryjourneysllc

As the cooler weather approaches, what and how we cook often also changes. We gravitate towards heartier dishes and are willing to cook dishes that take a bit more time. One of the cooking skills for this type of cooking is Braising. This Cooking Tip will explain what it is and how to put it to use in your kitchen. Although braising is not limited to meat, it is the most common food item to be braised and is the one I will discuss.

According to Harold McGee in On Food and Cooking, the word braise is said to come from 18th-century French. It comes from a word for “coal” and refers to putting coals under and atop the cooking pot.

Braising is the act of slowly cooking a piece of meat in a moist environment. To add a bit more detail, the meat is browned in fat and then cooked in a small amount of liquid in a covered pan over low heat for a long time. This long slow cooking develops flavor and tenderizes the food.

Even though you do not need a recipe to produce a delicious braised meat dish, most of us will probably turn to a recipe. The problem is that most of these recipes include instructions that do not stand up to the science of making a proper braise. I will explain below and will incorporate wisdom from both Harold McGee (On Food and Cooking) and J. Kenji López-Alt (The Food Lab).

First, what cuts of meat are best for braising? The good thing is that the best cuts of meat are also the least expensive. You want to select fatty, tougher cuts of meat. Just a few examples are:

Chuck
Brisket
Pork shoulder
Boston butt
Lamb shoulder/shanks

I will list the basic steps to braising and will follow with the elaboration of those steps.

Brown the meat.
Add and cook aromatics.
Add liquid and seasonings.
Cook in a covered pot until done and the meat is very tender.
Use the remaining liquid to make a sauce.

Browning the meat

Start by removing excess fat, silver-skin, etc. from the meat. Season with salt and pepper.
Keep the meat as intact as possible so there are fewer surfaces through which juices can escape. If you must cut the meat to fit into your pot, cut it into as large of pieces as possible.
Heat oil in a heavy pot until hot.
Add meat and sear each side just until brown. You want to get a nice sear while at the same time minimizing the warming of the interior of the meat.
Some chefs like to lightly dredge the food in flour that will later develop body in the sauce. Most, though, will do this later by other methods.
Once browned, remove meat from the pan.

Start building flavor by adding aromatics

Start with something from the onion family such as leeks, shallots, onions and/or garlic.
Many chefs start with a classic mirepoix of carrots, celery and onion.
The moisture that will be released from the vegetables will help to deglaze the pan and incorporate the flavorful fond into the liquid.
Other possibilities include items such as:
- Additional vegetables (butternut squash, carrots, parsnips, celery, fennel, mushrooms, turnips, rutabaga)
- Herbs
- Fruit
- Spices
Some recipes call for adding tomatoes, which are an acidic ingredient that helps to break down the food.
J. Kenji López-Alt likes to add umami with anchovies, Marmite, Worcestershire sauce or soy sauce.

Add liquid

Start by deglazing the pan with wine, vinegar, beer, stock or water.
Add additional liquid of your choice. Common liquids are:
- Broth
- Juice – apple, cranberry, tomato
- Combination of broth and dry wine or water
The liquid should cover the meat by ⅓ to ½. The meat should only be partially covered, not submerged.
Bring liquid to a simmer, taste and adjust seasoning.
Return meat to pan.

Cook mixture until done

This is the step where recipes can mislead you and give you an inferior result. The variables are the use of a lid, the cooking temperature and the cooking method.

Meats with significant amounts of tough connective tissue must be cooked to a minimum of 160-180°F to allow the collagen to dissolve. However, muscle fibers begin to lose their juices at 140-150°F. So, it can be a challenge to keep these tough meats juicy. The key is to cook slowly at or just above the temperature to dissolve the collagen. This minimizes the drying out of the meat.

Lid – Most recipes will tell you to tightly cover your pot. The truth is that you should leave the lid slightly cracked. This helps with temperature regulation. If the pot is completely sealed, the liquid gets too hot. A tightly sealed pot will allow the liquid to get to a boiling point, which you do not want as it will dry out the meat. By leaving the lid slightly ajar, the temperature of the liquid will stay around 185°F. This lower temperature allows the collagen in the meat to slowly break down while still maintaining moisture within the meat. Hotter liquid also leads to overcooking the outer part of the meat before the entire cut is done.

Cooking temperature

Once again, many recipes will give you bad advice. They will recommend an oven temperature of 300-350°F. This is much too hot to be able to keep the liquid well below the boil and around 180°F. Experts who understand this will recommend setting your oven much lower.

Here is Harold McGee’s method.

Start the pot with the meat and liquid in a cold oven. Let the lid sit slightly ajar to allow some evaporation. Set the oven to 200°F. This should allow the contents to rise to about 120°F over two hours.
Raise the oven temperature to 250°F so that the contents warm from 120°F to 180°F.
After an hour, check the meat every half-hour. Stop cooking when the meat is easily penetrated with a fork.

Here is J. Kenji López-Alt’s method.

Preheat oven to 275°F
Return meat to the pot and put on a lid slightly cracked.
Cook until meat is tender.

Cooking method

Many will tell you that you can cook a braise either stovetop or in the oven. This is true but for superior results, opt for the oven.
The difference is that:
- The stovetop maintains a constant heat output.
- An oven maintains a constant temperature.
Cooking stovetop means that although the mixture is barely simmering when you start cooking, it will probably creep up to a boil as the heat applied to the pot from the burner is constant (unless it is monitored and adjusted.)
In the oven, the temperature of the food stays the same. Also, the heat surrounds the pot rather than just coming from the bottom.
No matter which method you use, you should check periodically to ensure the liquid has not evaporated.

Finishing steps

Allow the meat to cool in the liquid. This results in reabsorption of some of the liquid, giving you a juicier result.
It also makes the meat easier to slice.
After removing the meat, the liquid should be turned into a delicious sauce. There are different ways to do this.
- Some will recommend reducing the liquid to a sauce consistency by boiling.
- Others will recommend thickening by using a roux, beurre manié or starch slurry.
- Another method is pureeing the mirepoix and then returning it to the sauce.
Always finish by tasting and adjusting the seasonings.

The classic example of a braise is the all-American Pot Roast. However, this is not your only option. By following the above steps, you do not even need a recipe. If you are using a recipe, please adjust it in the above ways to ensure the best result.

Happy Braising!

Cooking Tips · Ingredients

Get your fall spices ready!

August 30, 2023September 17, 2023 culinaryjourneysllc

As I write this, Summer is sadly getting ready to exit the stage. Behind it, though, are the wonderful Fall and Holiday baking seasons. Although we use spices year-round, certain spices and spice blends are essential for this type of baking. To get you ready, I am writing this Cooking Tip. For a more general discussion on Spices, see this Spice Tip and for Spice Blends, take a look at this Tip.

As you get ready for holiday baking, you want to get the most flavor possible from your spices. To ensure that, make sure your spices are fresh. If they are ground spices and you have had them for more than six months, smell them. Do they have a strong aroma? If not, time to get fresh.

For some of the spices, especially those you do not use regularly, it is best to buy whole rather than ground spices. They will last much longer and you only need to grind the amount you are going to use. For more information on this, see this prior Tip.

Another piece of advice is to make your spice blends rather than purchasing them pre-blended. Why buy a bottle of apple pie spice when you are only going to use it a couple of times and then it will sit in your pantry for another year? By that time, you will need to toss it and buy fresh. This is costly and wasteful. Instead, just make the amount you need from individual spices you most likely already have on hand. Another plus for this approach is that it helps you use up those individual spices before they go stale. There are some exceptions to this advice, which I outline in this Spice Blend Tip. Homemade spice blends are not only a wonderful addition to your pantry but they also make great DIY Holiday gifts.

Which spices do you associate with holiday baking? Different bakers will have their specific lists but these lists will share some commonalities. I will discuss those below. I have written entire Cooking Tips for some of these spices. For those, I have given you the links to read more.

Allspice

Can be purchased as whole berries or ground.
The flavor has notes of cloves, nutmeg, star anise, black pepper and cinnamon.

Cardamom (sometimes spelled as cardamon)

Can be bought in pods, shelled or ground.
It has a warm flavor that is herby, sweet citrusy.

C i nnamon

This spice is the one that most of us would probably list first as an essential holiday spice.
Can be purchased in sticks, chips or ground.
The flavor is a balance of sweet and spicy.
There are different varieties.
- The most common cinnamon in our pantries is Cassia (Korintje or Indonesian). It is pungent and woodsy.
- Ceylon has a gentle, floral flavor.
- Saigon (Vietnamese) cinnamon is bolder and is a great balance of sweetness and heat. This is my favorite.

Cloves

Can be purchased whole or ground.
Cloves have a sharp flavor that can be overpowering if used in excess. It is often paired with cinnamon, nutmeg and allspice.
Its flavor is described as sweet, bitter and astringent.

Ginger

Can be purchased fresh, ground and in crystallized form.
This is one of the warm holiday spices and is what gives gingerbread its unique flavor.

Nutmeg

Can be purchased whole or ground.
It is another spice that is both warm and spicy.
Use with restraint so as not to be too overpowering.

Star Anise

These are sold as star-shaped pods that are also sometimes used as decoration.
This spice has a mild and fragrant licorice flavor

Here are some of the popular fall and holiday spice blends. These blends can vary from company to company as to which spices and in what ratios they are included. That is another advantage of making your own. You can make it to your tastes. I will give you the usual spices that are included in each blend.

Apple pie spice blend
Some recipes only use cloves, cinnamon and nutmeg. Others add allspice, cardamom and/or ginger.

Gingerbread spice
Ginger, cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves. Some recipes add allspice.

Chai baking spice
The most common spices in this blend are cinnamon, cardamom, ginger, cloves, nutmeg and black pepper. Occasionally, anise might be included.

Mulling spice blend
Cinnamon, nutmeg, allspice and cloves. Many recipes also include dried citrus peel. Others might use cardamom, star anise and even peppercorns.

Pumpkin pie spice
Cinnamon, ginger, cloves, nutmeg and allspice. An occasional recipe will include cardamom.

Speculaas spice mix
Speculaas cookies are a Dutch delicacy similar to gingerbread cookies although the spice mix is a bit different. This spice mix uses cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg, ginger, anise, cardamom, white pepper and sometimes mace and/or coriander.

What does your spice pantry look like? More importantly, what does it smell like? It is a good time to investigate all your spices but pay careful attention to these spices that are going to be the mainstay of your fall and holiday baking. Make sure they are fresh, consider whole rather than ground and have fun making your own blends. Happy Fall!!

Cooking Tips · Ingredients

Apple Season is Upon Us

August 23, 2023August 31, 2025 culinaryjourneysllc

Do you enjoy a good apple pie, crumble or other dessert? Do you enjoy using apples in savory dishes? If you do, you are in luck as we are now entering Apple Season. In this Cooking Tip, I will discuss the different types of apples, which are best for different preparations along with some apple trivia.

Let’s start with that trivia.

The US is the second largest apple producer second to China.
Apples are the most consumed fruit in the US.
It is said that over 2500 varieties of apples are grown in the US but only about 100 are grown commercially.
One of the newer apple varieties (although not the only one) is Cosmic Crisp. See this Tip for more about that one.
The most-grown apple is the Red Delicious. It is not the best choice for cooking and baking, though, as it has poor flavor and a mealy texture.
The crabapple is the only apple native to the US.
One 9-inch apple pie requires about 2 pounds of apples.
The top 10 varieties in the US are Red Delicious, Gala, Granny Smith, Fuji, Golden Delicious, Honey Crisp, McIntosh, Rome, Cripps Pink (aka Pink Lady) and Empire.
US has ~5000 apple growers.
One of every three apples grown in the US is exported.
Only 5% of the apples consumed in the US are imported.

Even though we can buy apples year-round in our supermarkets, they are best when purchased in season. Depending on the variety, that could mean as early as July and on through November. Apples sold out of season have been held in commercial cold-storage facilities. Those facilities can keep them somewhat ripe but the apples can lose crispiness and become mealy.

If you go to a pick-your-own orchard, you can expect summer apples to be ready to be picked starting in early August. Autumn apples will start to be picked around the beginning of September. Apples picked too early are tart and small. Apples picked too late tend to suffer in terms of texture, flavor and shelf life.

Whether or not an apple will continue to ripen once picked depends on how mature it is. If an apple falls off a tree when it’s too young, it will not continue to ripen. Nor will very young apples ripen in storage. Apples that have reached sufficient maturity can continue to ripen even after picking. Note that maturity and ripeness are different characteristics. Maturity in apples only indicates that the fruit has developed to the point where it will finish ripening on its own, even if removed from the tree. So, a “mature” apple is not necessarily a “ripe” one.

Growers will pick apples meant for storage once they are “mature”, but before they are perfectly ripe. Apples for fresh eating are best left on the tree until ripe.

When picking an apple choose those that are firm with tight, unbroken skins. As many varieties have naturally dull surfaces, do not be afraid of those that do not have the very shiny finish that you often see in the supermarkets. Choose apples without bruises and that feel firm and heavy. The fragrance of an apple is a good indicator of freshness and quality.

When I teach cooking classes that involve apples, I always get the question of which variety they should use. I wish I could tell you that there were only certain apples that were suited for certain purposes. That is not true although different “experts” will offer their recommendations. It depends on the flavor and texture you want. What I have done for you is to consult eight different sources and made a chart of which apples each of these separate sources recommend. I will give you a list of the apples that seemed to be favorites with at least four of these sites.

Before I do that, I want to mention one recommendation you read repeatedly. That is to use a combination of different apples in your pie. Some apples are considered “Sweet & Firm” while others are considered “Tart & Soft”. Therefore, they will react differently in the recipe. Many chefs feel you can get the best of both worlds by combining apples from these two different categories. Choose one to provide more texture and another to amp up the flavor. Not all agree, though. Serious Eats states when you do this, you “end up with a pie that’s got nice firm chunks of apple interspersed with brown apple mush.”

The firm/sweet apples are those that tend to hold their shape better. The soft/tart varieties will cook down to a mushier filling. Here is a list of some of those.

FIRM/SWEET	SOFT/TART
Ambrosia	Belle de Boskoop
Cortland	Bramley
Elstar	Cox’s Orange Pippin
Gala	Granny Smith
Golden Delicious	Gravenstein
Golden Russet	Jonathan
Jonagold	Macintosh
Liberty	Newton Pippin
Pink Lady	Northern Spy
	Prima
	Spartan

Now, here are the apples that seem to please a majority of the sites I consulted if you are making apple pie. Fortunately, most of these are easily found in your supermarket or farmer’s market.

Braeburn
- Flavor is a nice balance of sweet and tart.
- They will remain firm when baked.
- They work well in pies/tarts where you do not want an overly juicy texture.
Golden Delicious
- Flavor is sweet, mellow and buttery.
- A great all-around cooking apple as it maintains its shape when cooked.
Granny Smith
- Flavor is tart and sour, but it is also one-dimensional.
- Texture is crisp.
- Best when paired with sweeter and spicier apples.
Honeycrisp
- A very popular eating apple with a honey-sweet and somewhat tart flavor.
- Texture is crisp and juicy.
- Good for baking as well as applesauce.
Jonagold
- A cross of Jonathan and Golden Delicious apples.
- Flavor is tangy but sweet. Some describe it as slightly spicy.
- They hold their shape when baked.
- Good in salads and applesauce.
- Because of their small size, thick skin and good shelf-life, they are a great choice for making caramel apples.

Now that you have picked and brought your apples home, how can you prolong their freshness? Apple experts recommend the following.

Refrigerate them – apples ripen 6-10 times faster on the counter than in the fridge. Some recommend putting them in a plastic bag before refrigerating. The best temperature is between 30-32°F with a humidity of 90-95%. The rate at which apples lose flavor and juiciness is proportional to the temperature at which they are stored.
Separate apples – wrap each apple in sheets of paper, which prevents one apple from going bad and then ripening the rest of them.
Some apples are better suited for longer storage than others. The best keepers are McIntosh, Fuji, Rome and Granny Smith. Apples harvested later in the season are better keepers.
Avoid apples with bruises, cuts, or soft spots.
Apples pick up tastes from other things in the refrigerator so do not put them in the same drawer as something with a strong smell.
Apples produce ethylene gas, which ripens other things faster. Do not store with other items you do not want to ripen. Keep away from veggies you do not want to wilt (lettuce) or lose their crispiness (celery).

We also all know that apples turn brown when cut. This is due to a chemical reaction that occurs because an enzyme is released when the apple is cut and subsequently reacts with oxygen. Preventing this is achieved by blocking the oxygen, reversing the chemical reaction, changing the pH of the environment or stopping the reaction by altering the temperature. Here are a few of the suggested actions.

Acidulated water– Toss the apples in a bit of water to which an acid has been added, typically lemon juice or cider vinegar.
Honey water – Add 2 tablespoons of honey to 1 cup of water and pour over apple slices. This can keep your apples white for more than 24 hours. Even a 30-second submersion can prevent browning for up to 8 hours.
Saltwater solution – Add ½ teaspoon kosher salt to 1 cup water. Add apples and soak for 10 minutes. Drain and store until ready for use. Rinse salt off with tap water just before serving.
Plain water – Submerge apples in plain water using a paper towel on top to keep them under the water and away from the oxygen in the air. Or, put the apples and water in a zipper-lock bag with the air pressed out. Do not soak for more than about 15 minutes to avoid altering the texture.
Plastic wrap – Wrap cut apples in plastic wrap to keep the oxygen away.
Carbonated drinks – Submerge apples in a carbonated beverage such as lemon-lime soda, ginger ale or seltzer for 3-5 minutes. Drain and rinse before use.

There is one final thought I want to leave you with. Have any of you thought, as I do, that fruit just doesn’t taste as good as it used to? I think this all the time. How often have you bitten into an apple just to find its flavor bland? According to Eat The Seasons, “The apples sold in supermarkets are varieties developed for good disease resistance or storage properties, often at the expense of flavor. As author Elspeth Huxley wrote: ‘You cannot sell a blemished apple in the supermarket, but you can sell a tasteless one provided it is shiny, smooth, even, uniform and bright.’ For more interesting and flavorsome varieties, look out for growers’ stalls in farmers’ markets or visit a pick-your-own orchard.”

When visiting a fruit stand in California, we were told the same thing about strawberries. He told us that what people want to buy are large, red strawberries. Although they may look pretty, they are often tasteless whereas the small, less-desired berries are more likely chock-full of flavor. If we would all be more discerning consumers, maybe this would eventually change. In the meantime, I feel fortunate that my husband loves to grow his own fruit and vegetables!

Cooking Tips · Ingredients · Techniques

Fresh Fruit – How to Prevent Disappointment

August 16, 2023September 1, 2023 culinaryjourneysllc

One of my favorite food groups is fruit. Not just any fruit, though. It needs to be flavorful, sweet and ripe fruit. It can certainly be a challenge to find that in our supermarkets in today’s world. If you have had the privilege of tasting ripe fruit just picked off the tree, you know what I mean. So much of the fruit in our supermarkets is tasteless and mediocre. You pay good money to purchase this fruit, take it home, and then you are met with disappointment. Although you cannot do anything about the selection of fruit in the markets, you can try to pick the best of the lot. That is the subject of this Cooking Tip.

It goes without saying that you are going to get the best fruit when it is in season. We are somewhat spoiled as we can get almost any fruit at any time of the year. Just because it is for sale, though, does not mean you should purchase it. It will certainly taste better and be a better value when it is in season. That will vary based on where you live. Here is a calendar of in-season produce for Colorado. If you live elsewhere, check with your local department of agriculture for a similar calendar for where you live.

It is also good to know which fruits continue to ripen after they are picked and which do not. Here is a chart from the University of Nebraska extension office. Some fruits, such as pears, are meant to be picked unripe and then ripen afterward. However, the best-tasting fruits will always be those that are ripe when picked. For example, even though a peach can continue to ripen on your counter, it will not taste nearly as good as if it ripened on the tree.

Here are some General Tips for picking ripe fruit. We will look at a few specific fruits below.

Weight – ripe fruit tends to feel heavy as compared to its size. If the fruit feels light, it is either unripe or perhaps over-ripe.
Pressure – pressing gently on the fruit should yield some give although there are exceptions as discussed below.
Aroma – ripe fruit should be fragrant but not overpowering.
Color – Light green color on fruit is usually an indicator that it is not ripe.

Avocados

The skin should be dark and firm without soft spots. Bright green is an indicator that it is not ripe and very dark green tending towards black means it is overripe. You want one that is a darker shade of green but not black.
Avocados ripen first at the stem end. Therefore, gently press on the larger rounded end to see if it gives, which is an indication of ripeness.
Pluck off the stem and look at the color. You want to see a nice green color, not yellow.

Berries

The color should be bright without bruising or mold.
They should be plump and firm.
They should have a sweet and fruity aroma.

Cantaloupes

The color does not change too much as it ripens although unripe ones may have a slight green tint to them.
The best way to tell ripeness is the aroma. If it smells slightly sweet, it is most likely ripe. However, if it is a strong sweet aroma, it could be over-ripe.
Pick one that is heavier than the others.

Figs

As figs ripen, they will turn darker in color. Depending on the variety, it might be brown or purple. Some figs, though, remain greenish as they ripen. So, you cannot rely on color alone.
Ripe figs are heavy for their size.
A ripe fig will be slightly soft to the touch.
The shelf life of figs is very short. Therefore, enjoy them while you can!

Lemons

Choose the heaviest you can.
They should be fairly firm but not hard.
If you gently scratch the skin, it should smell like lemon.

Limes

As a lime ripens, it turns from dark green to a lighter color and almost yellowish.
It should have a lime aroma when scratched.
It should give slightly when pressed.

Mangos

Mangoes come in a variety of colors making color an unreliable indicator of ripeness.
A ripe mango will give slightly when pressed.
It should also have a slightly fruity aroma at the stem end.

Peaches

A ripe peach should have no green around the stem. They should be yellow-orange with some red. White peaches should be off-white with a few areas of red blush.
Although peaches will continue to ripen some after picking, they do not ripen well and do not compare to those ripened on the tree. Peaches with a green tint may not fully ripen.
Choose peaches with fuzzy skins that are firm but yield to gentle pressure.
They should smell like peaches.

Pears

Pears do not change color much as they ripen although some varieties will go from green to yellow.
Ripe pears can feel as firm as unripe ones. However, if you press the stem and it is firmly adhered to the pear, do not buy it. You want one that has a little give.
Ripe pears will give off a mild pear aroma. If the aroma is very strong, it will most likely be over-ripe.

Pineapples

The leaves should look fresh and dark green. Avoid dry-looking leaves.
Avoid pineapples with soft or dark spots.
Pineapples change from green to yellow as they ripen.
It should be heavy for its size.
A ripe pineapple will have a sweet aroma at the stem end.

Watermelon

As this melon grows, part of it sits on the ground and develops a yellowish patch, which is a good indicator of ripeness. Unripe ones will have a white spot or no spot at all.
If the melon is not too large to hold in one hand, pick it up and knock on the side of it. A ripe watermelon will sound and feel somewhat hollow.

Even with all these tips, I am sure you will have experiences like I have had. You are yearning for a delightful peach or a sweet cantaloupe. As you feel and look at the fruit available, you do not find any that appear or smell like they might be ripe. I do not know what you do but I walk away. I would rather not waste my money on unripe fruit that tastes of nothing.

I have been known to buy canned or bottled fruit or, depending on what I want to do with the fruit, frozen. The fruit that goes into those items is generally much riper and tastier than what you often find in the produce section. You do, though, need to be careful about the sugar content, including added sugar, of canned and bottled items. If the item says “no sugar added”, it will still most likely be packed in fruit juice. Many also will add an artificial sweetener to the product. Read the nutritional facts label before purchasing.

So, yes, buying fruit in the supermarket or even at farmer’s markets can be a disappointing experience. But, when you find those ripe gems, it is a great day!