How do you cook dried pasta? We are all taught that you need to bring a large pot of water to a boil, add salt until it tastes like the sea, add the pasta, stir and cook until it is done. There are some who think this technique is not only a waste of water but a waste of time. That is the subject of this Cooking Tip.

One of the first to discuss the method of cooking water in less water was Harold McGee. In his 2004 book On Food and Cooking, he recommends the standard method. However, in 2009, he began to question this and started experimenting with using less water. He found it acceptable as long as you stirred the pasta as the water was coming up to a boil to prevent sticking. He also had two Italian chefs try it.

• Lidia Bastianich – She thought the pasta cooked in less water lacked the “gradation of texture” that she liked. She also felt the pasta lacked in the nutty flavor that she expects from a semolina pasta.
• Marcella Hazen – Her only comment was that it took a significant amount of stirring to prevent sticking and thought it was not worth the effort.

I first read about this alternate method in a book published in 2015 – The Food Lab by J. Kenji López-Alt. He explained that the recommendation for cooking pasta in large amounts of boiling water comes from those that think it prevents sticking and clumping, it prevents the pasta from becoming mushy and it helps the pasta cook evenly. So, in his typical manner, he set out to test this directive.

In his testing, he found the textual difference argument by Lidia was not supported by his results. He did agree that stirring was necessary for the first minute or two. However, he thought this was important no matter which method you used.

Another trial he did was to bring a small pot of water to a boil, added the pasta, brought it back to a simmer, stirred, put a lid on and turned off the heat. He waited the usual 10-12 minutes and found the pasta was perfectly done.

In April of 2023, America’s Test Kitchen put this small amount of water method to the test in their kitchen but also added using cold water from the start.

They put 1 pound of dried pasta in 1 quart of cold water, brought it to a boil and stirred occasionally. They then reduced the heat to maintain a simmer. At this point, stirring was no longer needed as the agitation of the water kept the pasta from sticking. After cooking to the desired doneness, the testers found it cooked up just as well as the same pasta cooked in 4 quarts of boiling water.

They found a time savings of about 45% as the cold method took only 16-17.75 minutes depending on the pasta shape whereas the conventional method took 23.5 – 29 minutes. They also touted the water savings as the conventional method took 75% more water.

If cooking strands of pasta, it would be best to use a 12-inch skillet so all the strands can get covered in the small amount of water. Otherwise, a saucepan is sufficient.

We are also always told to save some of the pasta water to use in finishing our pasta sauce. This is because the starch from the pasta dissolves in the water, which not only thickens the sauce, but also aids in emulsification. This helps to sauce to coat the pasta and gives the sauce that silky texture.

If using the method with a small amount of water, the starch will be concentrated in less water. Therefore, you will use less of it to complete your sauce. If you salt your water before cooking the pasta, use less salt as the pasta water may make your dish too salty. One caveat, this method is not for fresh pasta as it can get too mushy.

Have you ever tried this new method? Do you like it? I have to admit that habit just makes me fill a pan with water and bring it to a boil for cooking my pasta. Next time, I will have to step back and break that habit.

I have noticed lists all over the place telling you which items you should make and not buy. Those lists are the opinions of the writers and they vary greatly. I decided to see if there were any similarities in those lists and that is the subject of this Cooking Tip.

For me, there are certain items that I never buy including tomato sauce products (pasta sauce, pizza sauce, etc.), pesto, tortillas, most spice mixes and premade desserts. Some of those made it onto the lists that I had seen but not all.

Here are the items that are most commonly on a “Make It – Don’t Buy It” list. The reasons for these recommendations could be the taste, the nutritional value and/or the cost.

Bread – along with the next item, this is the food item that most writers recommend making. Making bread is not difficult and it is certainly cheaper than buying store-bought bread. Most decent store-bought bread is a minimum of $3.50 and can go even higher for artisan loafs. You can certainly make it for a fraction of that. Your homemade bread will also lack the preservatives and other additives that are in store-bought bread. However, you do need time to make homemade bread. I will also include in this category items such as croutons and bread crumbs. They are so easy to make and are a great use for bread that is going stale.

Salad Dressings – Vinaigrettes and other salad dressings are very simple to make and you can make flavors that are difficult to find in the store. Once again, it can also be less expensive depending on the cost of your ingredients. It can be as easy as just drizzling vinegar and oil on your salad or something a bit more involved. This is an item where I admit that I have both in my refrigerator.

Stock – this was second only to bread and salad dressings found on “make, don’t buy” lists. However, making your own stock takes time and ingredients. For example, you need some sort of meat bones for chicken/beef broth, shrimp shells or fish bones for seafood stock. If you have the discipline and space to save those items rather than throw them away, making stock is easy but does take time. You also need to portion it out and freeze it when you are done, which takes freezer space that some just don’t have. I try to make home-made stock when I can but I always have good quality store-bought stock in my pantry as it is a frequently used ingredient for me.

Dips such as hummus, guacamole, salsa and pico de gallo – these are items that you probably don’t have in your kitchen all the time. Rather, you want them for certain occasions or dishes. Because of that, you may or may not have the ingredients on hand when you want them. If you do, you can easily throw them together rather than running out and buying a pre-made version. The cost may be a toss-up.

Pesto – as I mentioned, I never buy this. I tend to make different versions when I have the time and ingredients. I freeze it in ice cube trays and transfer to freezer bags or containers. That way, I always have pesto available and I love having versions made with different herbs and/or cheese.

Nut butters – this is not an item that we consume or use much at all. So, I rarely have them in my pantry in either store-bought or home-made versions. If these are a staple for you, you might want to consider making them especially for those that are very expensive in the stores such as almond butter & cashew butter. You can control what goes into them and also personalize the flavors.

Pancake mixes – making pancakes and waffles is so easy with ingredients that you will almost surely have at home that there is really very little reason to buy pre-made mixes.

Tomato products – I never buy pasta, pizza or other tomato products. It is so simple to throw together a marinara or heartier sauce that will be less expensive and so easy to personalize to your tastes.

Granola – if you have never made your own, give it a try. Just make the amount you want with the ingredients you want. It will save you money and taste great.

Spice mixes – except for very commonly used mixes (Italian seasoning) or those that take a myriad of spices that I don’t have on hand (curry powder, chili blends), I never buy spice mixes. If you have the individual spices on hand, you can use those to make just the amount you want and not have left-over mix that might lose its flavor before you use it again. A perfect example is Pumpkin Pie spice.

There are many other items that are on some lists but the above are the most commonly mentioned. Do you agree with them? What do you never buy? Your list will probably be different than my list or other’s lists. It will depend on your priorities, your time and your desire.

In the culinary world, there are many French words that are commonly used. As I discovered recently when talking to a friend, many home cooks are not familiar with these terms. That is the subject of this Cooking Tip. There are too many terms to list them all in this Tip. Rather, I will focus on those that the home cook will most likely run across. Whether you are trying to understand an item on a menu or trying to get an idea about a recipe, an explanation of these terms should prove helpful.

Beurre

This is the French word for Butter and you will see many variations of this mainly dealing with sauces.

• Beurre Blanc – This translates to “white butter”. It is a light sauce made with a reduction of white wine, vinegar and shallots and finished by whisking in butter to create a smooth and emulsified sauce.
• Beurre Rouge – As expected, the translation of this is “red butter”. It is made similarly to Beurre Blanc but made with red wine instead of white.
• Beurre Manie – This roughly translates to “butter by hand”. It is an uncooked roux and is made by kneading softened butter and flour together until combined. It can then be whisked into hot sauces or soups as a thickening agent.
• Beurre Noisette – browned butter. Butter is cooked gently until the milk solids settle out and turn brown and nutty in flavor. Can be used as a sauce on its own or as an ingredient.

Other sauces

• Béchamel sauce – This is a classic thickened white sauce made with a roux and milk. It can be used as a pasta sauce on its own or as a component of souffles and traditional lasagna.
• Mornay sauce – If you take Béchamel sauce and add cheese, you have Mornay sauce. The classic cheese used is Swiss or Gruyère but you can vary it based on your tastes. If you have ever made mac & cheese from scratch, you have made a Mornay sauce whether or not you knew that was the name.
• Velouté – If you make a white sauce with roux and a light stock instead of milk, you have made Velouté. Think Thanksgiving gravy. Velouté may also be applied to a type of pureed soup.
• Hollandaise – This is a rich sauce made with egg yolks and butter and classically served as part of Eggs Benedict.
• Béarnaise – If you add tarragon to your hollandaise sauce, you have béarnaise.
• Coulis – a fruit or vegetable puree and served as a light sauce or garnish.
• Sabayon – This sauce is traditionally made with egg yolks, sugar and wine, normally Marsala. In Italian, it is known as zabaglione,

Techniques

• Papillote – a term used to describe food that is cooked and served inside a packet such as parchment or foil.
• Bain-marie – a method of cooking over a hot water bath. It provides for gentle and even heat and is used in melting chocolate and in cooking items such as custard and crème brulée.
• Confit – a cooking technique where food is cooked covered in fat at a low temperature. It is usually defined as a method of cooking duck or pork in its own fat. It is also stored in the same fat.
• Deglaze (deglacer) – a simple technique that involves adding a liquid to a pan that has been used to roast or sauté meat and scraping up the fond that has stuck to the bottom of the pan. It is the first step to making a delicious pan sauce.

French Dishes – here are just a few classic French dishes that you are likely to see on a restaurant menu.

• Boeuf Bourguignon – a slow-cooked French stew made with beef, red wine, pearl onions, mushrooms and bacon.
• Bouillabaisse – a traditional Provençal fish soup originating in the port city of Marseille.
• Cassoulet – another French stew but classically made with sausage, confit (typically duck), pork and white beans.
• Coq au Vin – translated as “rooster with wine”, this is a French chicken stew made by braising chicken with wine, bacon, mushrooms and red wine.
• Croque Monsieur – an elevated ham/cheese sandwich layered with Bechamel sauce. If you put an egg on top, it is called a Croque Madame.
• Gougeres – French cheese puffs
• Profiteroles – cream puffs
• Ratatouille – a traditional vegetable stew made with summer vegetables such as tomatoes, zucchini, peppers and eggplant.
• Tarte Flambée – also known as Flammekueche or Flammkuchen, it is an Alsatian-style pizza. With a thin crust and spread with cream, onions and smoked pork bits, it is delicious.

Miscellaneous Terms

• Bouquet Garni – a mixture of fresh herbs (normally thyme, parsley & bay leaf) tied together with string or wrapped inside a leek leaf and used to add flavor to stews and soups. The herbs may also be enclosed inside cheesecloth or a spice bag. In that case, it would be known as sachet d’épices (spice bag or sachet).
• Aioli – this is usually described as a garlic flavored mayonnaise and served with vegetables and fish.
• Roux – a mixture of fat and starch (usually butter and flour) cooked to desired color and then used to thicken sauces and, at times, add flavor. This is the basis for many sauces.
• Mirepoix – used as the base for soups, stews and sauces, it is composed of chopped vegetables. The typical composition is onions, carrots and celery. Variations on this are discussed in this Tip.

I hope this brief foray into how we often see the French language creep into our kitchens will save you time as you look at recipes or restaurant menus.

If you cook very much, you are sure to run across many culinary terms that are French in origin. One such word is “fond”. The literal translation of “fond” is “bottom” or “base”. However, I like to think of “fond” as “flavor”. What it is and why it is so important in cooking is the subject of this Cooking Tip.

In reality, fond is what we call the browned bits that remain in the pan after sautéing or roasting meat or vegetables. These little bits are concentrated flavor that you don’t want to throw away. Instead, you want to incorporate those into the dish you are making.

Fond is formed when proteins are exposed to heat and result in a brown and crusty exterior. Chemists call this process the Maillard reaction, which is a reaction between a sugar and an amino acid. (This is different than caramelization, which only involves sugar.)

To encourage the development of fond, there are a few things you can do. First, use the right kind of pan. Generally, you want to stay away from non-stick pans. You won’t develop as much fond. Also, searing meat/vegetables require a high heat, something that is not recommended for non-stick pans.

Another point is to make sure your food is not crowded in the pan. Otherwise, your food will steam rather than sear, inhibiting fond formation. Finally, make sure your food is dry, that the pan/oil is hot and don’t move the food around too much. Allow it to sit and brown. If your food sticks when you try to flip or move it, it is not ready. Let it cook a bit longer and it will release itself and leave behind great fond.

The way to incorporate the bits of fond into a sauce is by a process called “deglazing”. Deglazing involves adding a liquid to the hot pan. Using a tool that won’t hurt your pan, scrape the fond off the bottom of the pan into the liquid.

To turn this into a great pan sauce is quick & easy. After searing your meat, take it out of the pan and set aside. Pour out any excess grease or oil. Although not necessary, it is nice to add some aromatics or spices, such as minced shallot, garlic, cumin, or paprika. Cook over medium heat until the aromatics just become tender and the spices bloom, scraping up the brown bits. Now, add the liquid of your choice – water, broth or wine – continuing to scrape up any remaining fond. Cook until the liquid is reduced into a sauce-like consistency. Some chefs will start with wine, cooking it until it is almost evaporated and then add broth, cooking until it is again reduced. Off the heat, whisk in a pat or two of butter for richness.

One final advantage of deglazing your pan is that it is a great way to clean the pan – much better & easier than scraping it off and sending it down the drain!

My husband and I went out for a burger the other night as I had a coupon for a free burger. (Don’t you just love free?) This place did regular burgers but my husband also likes to go to a place that does smashed burgers. What is the difference and is one better than another? That is the subject of this Cooking Tip.

If you want to learn to make a great burger at home, you may want to review two prior Cooking Tips. One was on what type of beef to use and the second was on burger cooking advice.

Even though some date the origin of smashed burgers back to 2007 when the Smashburger chain opened its first restaurant, the method actually goes back much further. According to Blue MauMau, “The story is that the original Dairy Cheer hamburger shop owner Bill Culvertson, created the “smashed burger” when a worker discovered that smashing the meat with a No. 10 bean can while grilling was a great way to get the best flavor into a burger.”

What makes a smashed burger different than a regular/thick burger is the cooking method. To put it simply, the meat patty is put in a very hot pan and then smashed down into a thin burger. But, isn’t this counterintuitive to the recommendations for cooking burgers? Weren’t we taught that you should never squash your beef patty as all the juices would leak out, leading to a dry burger? It turns out that piece of advice is not necessarily true. (For other culinary myths, see these Cooking Tips – Part 1 & Part 2.)

The goal of a great smashed burger is creating a crispy outer crust and juicy interior. Let’s look at the method to create a smashed burger and the science behind it.

Start with good quality cold meat and form balls of about 2-3 ounces. Some recommend forming the balls and placing them back in the refrigerator for about 15 minutes. Each serving will be two patties. This gives you maximal crust and flavor. Heat a heavy skillet until very hot. Do not use a nonstick skillet. Not only will the nonstick surface inhibit the crust formation, but also the high heat can ruin your pan. Finally, the nonstick coating can vaporize and possibly be bad for your health.

Both Cooks Illustrated & Serious Eats recommend putting a small amount of oil in the skillet and rubbing it in with a paper towel. Then, proceed to heat the skillet over medium-low heat for 5 minutes. You can either season your meat just before placing it in the hot skillet or immediately afterwards. When the skillet is very hot, place your balls of meat in the skillet. Only place two balls in a 12-inch skillet. Now, immediately (within 30 seconds) firmly press down to form flat patties of about 4 to 4½ inches in diameter. One method is to wrap the bottom of another small skillet with foil and use this to press down on the patties. Others will use a firm metal spatula. You can even purchase a burger press.

Cook, without moving, until at least ¾ of each patty is no longer pink on top, about 1½ to 2 minutes. You want the patties to stick to the skillet. Use a thin metal spatula to loosen the patties from the skillet being sure to scrape up all the brown bits adhered to the skillet. Flip patties and cook until done, about another 15 to 30 seconds.

Now, to the science. It has to do with what is called the Maillard reaction. This is a type of browning that occurs due to a reaction between a sugar and an amino acid in the presence of heat. (This is different than caramelization, which only involves sugar.) Since the meat patties are pressed down for maximal contact, you get more of the Maillard reaction happening and thus, more browning and more delicious flavor. For this browning reaction to occur, the foods need to be heated to at least 300°F and are accelerated at temperatures higher than that.

There is a reason why you can do this pressing without losing moisture but you must do it early in the cooking phase. According to Serious Eats,

“When ground beef is cold, its fat is still solid and its juices are still held firmly in place inside small, chopped up segments of muscle fibers. That’s the reason why you can push and press on ground meat without squeezing out too much liquid, and the reason why you can smash a burger during the initial phases of cooking without fear of losing moisture.”

If you try to smash after a minute, you lose much more moisture and end up with a dry burger. According to Serious Eats, “a good 50% more moisture is lost in a burger smashed after 1 minute versus one smashed within 30 seconds.”

That is all there is to cooking a great smashed burger. Not only is cooking a smashed burger much quicker, it is also more fail-proof than cooking thicker burgers. And, in my opinion, even more tasty. Do you smash? If not, give it a try and let me know what you think.