Category: Cooking Tips

Cooking Tips · Ingredients

Eggs — so much to learn

culinaryjourneysllc

Eggs – these are a foodstuff that goes in and out of favor depending on the current state of nutritional research. Eggs are also a very natural and simple food. However, there is quite a bit to learn about eggs. In this Cooking Tip, I want to start to tackle this topic and increase your Egg IQ. Because there is so much to learn about eggs, I will start in this Tip and finish in a subsequent one or two tips. You will recall I already wrote a Tip about Egg White Foams. If you did not get this one and wish to, just email me.

I want to start with egg terminology. Do you buy whatever eggs are the cheapest or do you spend a bit more for cage free? As you are deciding how much you want to spend, be aware that some of the egg terms can be a bit misleading. Here are just a few of the main terms.

  • Cage Free – To be considered cage free, the hens are allowed to roost and socialize freely in a room or open area. They are not confined to a cage but this open area may be in a barn or poultry house rather than outside. Over 90% of the eggs found on our tables are from chickens raised in caged environments.

  • Free Range – In this case, the hens have access to the “outdoors”. “Outdoors” only means there is no roof. The area they have to range may be grass but could also be dirt or concrete.

  • Pasture Raised – This term implies that the hens actually spend time outdoors on grass and eat a diet partly, if not entirely, of bugs and plants. I think this is probably what most of us think of we think of free ranging or cage free chickens. However, we can now see that this may not be true.

  • Organic – For eggs to be labeled organic, the hens must be raised according to USDA National Organic Program guidelines. The hens must be allowed to range freely and given access to the outdoors. They must be fed an organic diet and, if they do not have access to a pasture area, they must be provided with sprouted grains or fresh plants on a daily basis.

Egg Dating – No matter which type of eggs you decide to purchase, you want them to be as fresh as possible. If you can buy them directly from a farmer or someone who raises backyard chickens, you can ask and be assured of their freshness. If you buy them from a supermarket, you have to rely on dates on the carton but what do they mean? You may see a “Sell By” or “Best By” or even an “Expiration” date. If the carton has a USDA shield on it and shows an Expiration date, that date cannot exceed 30 days beyond the pack date. If instead there is a “Best By” date, it can be no more than 45 days after the pack date.

Another date is the Julian date. This represents the day of the year that the eggs were packed – from 1 to 365. Here is an example from a carton I bought on March 31. They have a “Sell By” date of April 11. Their Julian date is 072, which is March 13. So, when I bought my eggs, it was 18 days after they were packed and I was told it was safe to continue to sell them for another 11 days — 29 days after packing.

Egg color – The color of the egg is determined by the breed of the hen. If you care to look at the hen’s ear, you can tell the color of the egg. If it has a white or light spot, that hen will lay white eggs. We have confirmed this as one of our hens has a bluish-green ear spot and she lays bluish-green eggs. Furthermore, there is no nutritional difference between different colored eggs.

Blood spots – This is one of the most misunderstood findings of an egg. Many people think a blood spot means the egg was fertilized and should be thrown away. According to the Egg Safety Center, “blood spots are caused by the rupture of a blood vessel on the yolk surface when it is being formed or by a similar accident in the wall of the oviduct in the hen’s reproductive tract.” As long as the egg is cooked properly, it is safe to eat.

Refrigeration – In the US, eggs are always refrigerated. However, in Europe, they are often sold at room temperature. The difference has to do with washing of the eggs. The USDA requires that all eggs sold in the US from farms with at least 3000 hens to be washed & sanitized. This removes the coating that is naturally found on eggs. In Europe, eggs are not required to be washed and thus, retain this coating. This allows them to be sold at room temperature.

Grading of eggs – Grading of eggs is actually voluntary and companies must pay to have the USDA grade their eggs. When grading, the characteristics that are looked at are the quality of the shell, white & yolk. The eggs can be graded from AA to A to B. The eggs that have the cleanest shells, the firmest whites and tallest-standing yolks get an AA rating. Grade B eggs may have a stain, bumps or an uneven shape. The white is watery and the yolk will be enlarged and flattened. Grade A eggs fall in between. If you want to know more specifics, here is a link to the USDA Grading Manual.

All are fine to eat but if appearance is most important, opt for AA. You will easily find both AA and A eggs in the supermarket while Grade B eggs are used commercially in powdered egg products or liquid eggs. I have never seen Grade B in my supermarkets but I must say I have not looked specifically for them. If you have seen them in your stores, let me know

Eggs from our own backyard chickens Eggs from our own backyard chickens

There is much more to eggs such as how to test for freshness, size and how to get that silly shell off a hard-boiled egg without craters! Stay tuned for Part 2.

Cooking Tips · Ingredients

Liquid Sugars

culinaryjourneysllc3 Comments

Last week, I wrote about the importance of sugar and the various types of solid sweeteners. In this Cooking Tip, I would like to concentrate on liquid sweeteners. The main ones we probably have in our kitchen are honey, maple syrup, molasses and corn syrup. There are others, which I will also briefly discuss. With all these sweeteners, it is best to use recipes that have been created for that ingredient. However, if you want tips for how to swap these sweeteners for sugar, email me for recommendations.

Honey is said to be the world’s oldest sweetener. Its flavor varies greatly depending on the flowers and trees that the bees visit. If you have never tasted anything other than supermarket honey, I urge you to seek out and taste these different types of honey. I know the first time I did, I was totally amazed. The uniqueness of these different honeys can make a huge difference in the taste of your food item. If you are using honey in a very light and delicate dish, you are going to want to use a mild-flavored honey such as clover or orange blossom. Darker, more full-flavored honeys can overpower such a dish.

Generally, honey is sweeter than sugar. Although honey can be used in baking, you must do so with care as it is not a 1:1 substitution for sugar. Not only do you have to be concerned about the sweetness level but honey also adds liquid as well as acidity. Honey also browns very quickly and this needs to be taken into account. The types of baked goods that take to honey well are softer baked goods that do not require crispiness such as muffins, quick breads and cake. One advantage of using honey is that it is attracts water and thus, keeps your baked item moister.

Corn syrup is said to be only 65% as sweet as white sugar and is derived from cornstarch. One advantage of corn syrup is that, unlike other sugars, it does not crystallize. Note that regular corn syrup is not the same thing as High Fructose Corn Syrup (HFCS). The latter is something that only food manufacturers use; it is not what you find in the baking aisle of your supermarket. HFCS is mainly fructose and its sweetness level is on par with granulated sugar. Corn syrup is mainly glucose, along with water & other longer-chain sugars. It is these longer-chain sugars that tend to tangle up with each other, creating a more viscous product and they are what prevent crystallization of other sugars. That is why it is often used in items such as pecan pie, caramel sauce, chocolate truffles and frostings. Some producers may add HFCS to their corn syrup but Karo is one company that does not. If you have concerns, just check the label.

Corn syrup comes in light and dark varieties and it is best to use whatever variety is called for in a recipe. The dark version is actually light corn syrup with added molasses, caramel coloring and flavoring. The light syrup has a delicately sweet flavor whereas the dark syrup has more of a molasses flavor.

Maple syrup is made from the sap of the sugar maple tree. In 2015, the FDA issued regulations concerning the grading and terminology for maple syrup. Rather than Grade A or B, the industry now uses terms relating to the color. Here is a great infographic that will help you when looking at the choices in the supermarket. If you wish to see the actual FDA regulations, here is a link. The lighter syrups are probably more all-purpose but the stronger flavored dark syrups are best for cooking. Swapping out sugar for maple syrup has the same precautions as for honey although browning does not happen as quickly and it is less acidic than honey.

Molasses is a byproduct of the sugar refining process. It is the residue that remains after the sugar crystals are extracted during the boiling process. The flavor will vary from type to type and it can also have bitter undertones. This sweetener comes in light or dark varieties as well as what is known as blackstrap. The most common is Light (aka Barbados, first, mild, sweet) and is the sweetest and mildest in flavor. Dark molasses (aka full, robust, second) will be thicker, less sweet and stronger in flavor. Blackstrap is very dark, thick and bitter. Another term you may see is “Unsulphured”. Some molasses is treated with sulphur dioxide as a preservative. Because this chemical affects the flavor, most molasses on our shelves will be unsulphured. Molasses is best used in recipes where it is used in combination with spices and/or fall fruits and vegetables.

Cane syrup is a caramelized, concentrated version of pure cane juice. The juice is boiled down and evaporated to create cane syrup. It is said to have a “burnt caramel” flavor and preferred uses are fruitcake and other spiced baked goods.

Sorghum syrup comes from sweet sorghum grass. The juice is extracted from the plants, returned to the mill and cooked down into a syrup. It is made in very small batches and its flavor is very specific to each producer.

Golden syrup is something you are much more likely to see in the UK, where it is often called “Treacle” or “Light Treacle”. Lovers of this syrup call its flavor “butterscotch” or “toffee”. There is a product known as “Black Treacle”, which is much darker and thicker than light treacle. It is similar to our molasses and is great in Sticky Toffee Pudding but can be overpowering in lighter dishes.

Agave nectar comes from the blue agave plant. It is very mild and neutral in flavor. It has been touted as a less refined sugar but has come under more scrutiny that has caused doubts to arise as to that claim. I am not going to go into the arguments about this sweetener but, if you use it, you may want to do some research of your own.

There is no doubt that Americans eat too much added sugar, but as I said in my last Tip, it is an ingredient that must be in any cook’s kitchen. Between last week’s Tip on solid sugars and this one on liquid sugars, I hope you can gain a better understanding of your choices so you can use it properly without overdoing it.

 

 

Cooking Tips · Ingredients

Sugar — more than just sweetness

culinaryjourneysllc4 Comments

Although sugar has a bad name in the nutritional world, it is a necessary ingredient for your cooking and baking. It is such a simple word but it is far from a simple ingredient. In this Cooking Tip, I want to talk about why sugar is an important ingredient and about the many different types of sugar. This tip will be limited to solid sugars. Liquid sugars will have to wait for a subsequent Tip.

If you ask the average person what the purpose of sugar is, they will probably say to add sweetness to the dish/beverage. Certainly, sweetness is one of the major properties of sugar. It is not the only one, though. Sugar can also help balance other flavors. An example would be a tomato sauce made with less ripe tomatoes. A pinch of sugar can help mask some of the acidity and bitterness of that sauce.

In baking, sugar can add volume as well as texture. It actually acts as a tenderizing agent in baked goods. In bread making, it assists with the proper amount of gluten development and decreases stickiness. Sugar also acts as a preservative as well as aiding in moisture retention. Sugar is what gives stability to beaten egg whites so they maintain their volume while baking. It also is what is responsible for that crunch in your cookies. Those beautiful golden crusts on coffee cakes & other baked goods is also due to sugar. There is more but that gives you an idea of how important sugar is for the cook.

Most sugar is obtained from either sugar beets or sugar cane. They are processed similarly (although not identically) by extracting sugar juice from these plants. By adjustments in the processing steps, many different types of sugar can be produced. I want to spend some time discussing the different types.

White sugar contains little or no molasses as the naturally-present molasses has been removed during processing. Types include granulated sugar, powdered sugar, caster sugar, sanding sugar & pearl sugar.

  • Granulated sugar (aka table sugar) is what most of us think of when it comes to sugar. It is the most common type in our kitchens.

  • Powdered sugar (aka confectioners’ or icing sugar) is made by grinding granulated sugar to a smooth powder and mixing it with a small amount of cornstarch (to prevent clumping). In a pinch and need powdered sugar but you have none? Make your own by grinding 1 cup of granulated sugar with 1 teaspoon of cornstarch in a blender for a full 3 minutes. This is the type of sugar to grab for making icings, frostings and glazes.

  • Caster sugar (aka superfine sugar) is very finely ground and is best is recipes that need the sugar to dissolve quickly and completely. Examples include meringues or frostings.

  • Sanding sugars are those colored sugars with large crystals that we like to sprinkle on top of baked goods.

  • Pearl sugar (aka coarse or decorating sugar) is a white sugar with a coarse, hard texture and an opaque color. Because it holds it shape and doesn’t melt, it is normally used to decorate baked goods.

Brown sugar contains varying amounts of molasses.

  • Light and dark brown sugars are made by mixing white sugar with molasses – less for light and more for dark.

  • There are other brown sugars which are less refined. Turbinado sugar is a slightly refined cane sugar, retaining more of the naturally-present molasses. It has a caramel-like flavor and it has large crystals that do not dissolve well. Because of this, it doesn’t do well in light batters or doughs but may be fine in muffins. Because it has less moisture content than brown sugar, swapping one for the other is not recommended. If attempting to substitute it for white sugar, be aware that turbinado has more moisture, which shouldn’t be a problem in moist batters but this could be a problem in pastry dough recipes. Another problem with substituting one for the other is that a cup of turbinado with its larger crystals won’t be the same as a cup of white sugar. This is another reason to have a food scale in your kitchen as it will give you more accurate measurements. The best uses for turbinado sugar are stirring into your coffee/tea or sprinkling on top of baked goods for a crunch.

  • Demerara sugar is another less-refined variety. It has larger grains than turbinado, is amber in color and has a subtle molasses flavor. Again, because of the grain size, it is best used for beverages or as a topping on baked goods. Be aware that some companies use these two terms (turbinado & demerara) interchangeably.

  • Muscovado sugar (aka Barbados sugar) is unrefined cane sugar in which no molasses is removed. It comes in both light and dark varieties and has a more sticky, sandy texture than regular brown sugar. It can be very strong in flavor, especially dark muscovado.

Sugar can also be categorized by its source. If the bag claims it is “cane sugar”, it comes solely from sugar cane. If it does not state “cane”, it is probably either beet or a mixture of cane and beet sugar. Coconut sugar (aka coconut palm sugar) is made from the sap of the coconut plant. It has an earthy flavor. Palm sugar comes from the nectar of the sugar palm tree. It tastes similar to coconut sugar but may have more smoky, caramel notes. Date sugar is made from dehydrated ground dates and can be used as an alternative to brown sugar. Maple sugar is made from the sap of the maple tree and has a wonderful mapley (Is that a word? If not, it should be.) flavor.

Sucanat (a contraction of Sugar Cane Natural) is a sweetener that you may have heard about. It is essentially pure dried sugar cane juice. It is far less processed than other sugars and is considered by some to be truly unrefined. It has more flavor than granulated sugar and also retains much of the natural molasses, meaning it looks brown and has more of a molasses-type flavor. Because of this, it would not be a good choice for lighter baked goods but may be great in spice cakes and ginger cookies. Testers found its granular texture meant that it did not dissolve easily and, therefore, recommended grinding before using it. Its chemical content is also different from granulated sugar. The latter is pure sucrose where as Sucanat has small amounts of glucose, fructose and other molecules besides the sucrose. Because of this, it can react differently than regular sugar in recipes and cannot be substituted one for one on a volume basis. For every cup of granulated or brown sugar called for in your recipe, use 1¼ cups Sucanat. According to America’s Test Kitchen, you cannot scale this up/down exactly. Rather, they have put together a chart for conversion purposes. A similar product is called Rapadura. Some people also include in this category jaggery/gur and panela/piloncillo. They often come compressed into cakes or cones and must be chipped or grated. Jaggery can also be made from the date palm and is typically found in Indian markets whereas panela is usually found in Latin markets.

One caution – you may see the term “raw” sugar and think it refers to sugar that has not been refined. The term “raw” is mostly a marketing term to get you to believe just that. The truth is that it may be less refined than white sugar but it is certainly not totally unrefined – meaning nothing has been added or removed.

Well, if you thought sugar was a simple ingredient good only for sweetening food items, I hope you now see it is not nearly as simple as you thought – but just as delicious!

Cooking Tips · Ingredients

Demystifying Corn Products

culinaryjourneysllc

Cornmeal, Grits, Polenta – are all of these just different words for the same thing? In this Cooking Tip, I will attempt to clarify what is often a confusing subject. My research found some conflicting statements and if you are a corn farmer (or know one) you may find things with which you disagree. (If so, let me know.) However, I have tried to find somewhat of a consensus.

In my supermarket, I saw several products labeled “Cornmeal” – some were white and some were yellow and there were different brands. There was something labeled as “Corn Grits – also known as Polenta”. I guess that company is covering all bases. There was a separate product just called “Grits”. There was also a box of “Instant Polenta” as well as tubes of something called “Polenta”. What’s a cook to do?

The first thing to understand is that Polenta is not really an ingredient – it is a dish. The term Grits is used to not only describe an ingredient, but also to indicate the dish made from that ingredient. (Are you confused, yet?) Since many recipes and food producers refer to grits and polenta as both an ingredient and a dish, that is how I will discuss it.

Let’s start with cornmeal. This is an ingredient that is basically corn that has been dried and ground in a mill. The grind may vary from fine to coarse. It can also vary in color: white, yellow or blue. Another difference you may notice is some will be a whole grain product while others will be degerminated. Cooks Illustrated tested a number of different varieties. They preferred the full-corn flavor of whole-grain but felt it was slightly gritty no matter how long it was cooked. The degerminated product (the hard hull and germ are removed) gave a creamier result.

Both polenta and grits are made from stone-ground cornmeal, typically from either a medium or coarse grind. Grits is traditionally a dish made in the southern US whereas polenta is an Italian dish. However, they are also made from different types of corn. Most grits are made from what is called “Dent” corn (field corn). The name comes from a small indentation in the kernel. It has a high soft starch content and is easy to mill.

In Italy, polenta is traditionally made from “Flint” corn, also known as Indian/Calico corn. Its name comes from its hard outer layer that has been likened to being as hard as flint. Because of this, it tends to hold its texture better.

Because of the differences in corn types, grits tend to be mushy while polenta is usually coarser and chewier. However, in today’s kitchens and restaurants, you may not know for sure which product is being used to make these different dishes. The only brand that I found that specifically states it is made from flint corn is Anson Mills. Another good brand, Bob’s Red Mill, uses dent corn.

If you see something called “instant” or “quick-cooking” polenta, it means that it has been par-cooked. Many people consider this variety bland in taste but I have used this type from DeLallo and found it very nice. I also have a great recipe from Bobby Flay for sweet potato and smoked chili grits that specifically calls for quick cooking grits.

What about that tube of something called polenta? It is basically pre-cooked polenta that has been cooled and formed into a tube. It is often sliced and then baked, grilled or seared. If you make your own polenta and let it cool, it will firm up just as in the tube.

So, what product do you use for what purpose? If you are making cornbread, you can probably use any kind of cornmeal but many cooks really prefer a coarser grind for the texture. If you are making a grits dish, try to find something called corn grits or at least a medium or coarse grind cornmeal. For polenta, if you can’t find something that says it is specifically for that dish, you should be fine with a medium or coarse grind cornmeal. Whether you want the whole-grain version or the degerminated will be a matter of personal choice depending on what texture you prefer.

Corn is a wonderful product and comes in so many forms (many that we have not even touched upon) that I am sure there is at least one kind that you will love.

Cooking Tips · Ingredients · Techniques

Custards and the miracle of eggs

culinaryjourneysllc

When we lived in England, my husband loved some little custard tarts that we would buy from a Portuguese bakery in the town in which we lived. Since then, I have been attempting to re-create them to his satisfaction. Recently, I was testing a recipe from Emeril Lagasse and it turned out to be a winner. Hurray! This testing caused me to think about custard and what a wonderful creation it is. It is something all cooks should know how to do and this is why I am writing this Cooking Tip.

A custard is nothing more than a mixture of milk, eggs and often sugar that is cooked into a thickened product. It forms the filling for these little Portuguese tartlets but a custard is also the basis of crème brûlée, flan, ice cream, quiche and more. It is not difficult to make a custard but there are some hints that I hope you find helpful.

Many custards start by having you beat/whisk the eggs (whole or just yolks) together with the sugar until it has thickened and turned light yellow. Some will recommend you continue to the “ribbon” stage, which means the mixture will form a ribbon as you lift up your spoon and allow the mixture to fall back into the bowl. These instructions are meant to help you ensure that the sugar has mostly dissolved. You do not necessarily need to go all the way to ribbon stage but a good mixing until the color and consistency changes is a good idea.

Some recipes will have you heat the dairy (milk, cream) before adding it to the egg/sugar mixture. This is not necessary unless you want to infuse flavor into the dairy. For example, my tartlet recipe had me infuse vanilla seeds and orange zest into the milk. This was achieved by bringing the cream to a boil, adding those two ingredients, covering it, taking it off the heat and allowing to steep for 30 minutes. I then whisked that steeped dairy into my egg mixture. If I did not want to infuse any flavors, I could have added everything together and then heated it on the stovetop.

If you are told to add hot milk/cream to the egg mixture, the danger is that the eggs will start to cook and you will end up with a scrambled egg mixture. To avoid this, you should “temper” the hot liquid into the eggs. This simply means adding some of the hot liquid very slowly into the eggs while whisking. Once the eggs have been diluted with the dairy, you can put it all back into the pot and continue with the recipe.

If your egg/dairy mixture is started cold, the recipe will instruct you to heat it so as to cook the eggs and thicken the mixture. This heating should be done very gently. Resist the temptation to turn up the heat to speed the process. I love how Harold McGee puts it in his book, On Food and Cooking.

“Turning up the heat is like accelerating on a wet road while you’re looking for an unfamiliar driveway. You get to your destination faster, but you may not be able to brake in time to avoid skidding past it.”

As he goes on to explain, the chemical reactions that cause the thickening of the custard don’t stop just because you take it off the heat. So, if you try to hurry this step, you may easily get to the point of curdling or overcooking.

Some custards are meant to be very soft and creamy while others (such as those that need to be turned out of the container before serving) are firmer. This can be adjusted by changing the proportion of the egg content. If you use more whole eggs or egg whites, the custard will turn out firmer and glossier. More egg yolks (or even yolks alone) produces a softer, creamier custard.

Some recipes will have you add a starch such as flour or cornstarch. These ingredients help with thickening while also protecting against curdling. The recommended amount is one tablespoon of flour or two teaspoons cornstarch (or arrowroot) for every cup of liquid. Whereas this does help guard against curdling, it can also turn a smooth, creamy dish into a thicker and coarser one. Whether your custard is made totally on the stovetop or ends up in the oven, if there is no starch in it, it requires gentle heating. On a stovetop, this generally means using the double boiler method with constant stirring. If in the oven, a water bath should be used. On the other hand, if you do add a starch to the mixture, the custard can be cooked over direct heat on the stovetop or without a water bath in the oven.

A water bath just means putting the custard dishes in a larger pan (such as a roasting pan) that has enough hot water in it to go up about half-way the height of the custard dishes. Even though your oven temperature may be set at 350°F, the water in the pan won’t exceed 212°F (or even less if you live at altitude). This means the custards are exposed to a gentler & more even heat. Some recommend putting a rack in the bottom upon which you place the custard dishes so that they are not directly exposed to the hot bottom of the pan. Without a water bath, the outside of your custard could overcook before the center is done. With a water bath, you are more likely to catch them at the perfect degree of doneness.

All this talk of custards has me salivating over those little Portuguese custard tartlets that I made. I have a few left and those will definitely be dessert tonight! How about you? Is a custard in your near future? Let me know!

Cooking Tips · Ingredients

The most delicious cup of hot chocolate!

culinaryjourneysllc

I am not sure what the weather is like where you live but we have been doing a lot of shivering, lately. When it is cold outside, doesn’t a cup of delicious hot cocoa sound good? Or, do you prefer a cup of hot chocolate? Aren’t they the same thing? Also, is there a better option than the boxed mixes from your supermarket shelves? That is what the Cooking Tip is all about this week.

I don’t know about you but I tend to use the terms hot cocoa and hot chocolate interchangeably but those in the know will tell you hot cocoa is a sweet, light-bodied beverage made primarily from cocoa powder, sugar and milk. It also often contains flavoring like vanilla or even spices like cinnamon.

Hot chocolate is just that – hot, melted chocolate. Made of good quality chocolate that is very finely chopped, it is then melted when combined with hot water, milk, or even cream. It may contain a flavoring like vanilla, but usually doesn’t have added sugar beyond what is in the chocolate. This beverage will be rich and thick and less sweet than hot cocoa. Which is better is, of course, a matter of personal preference.

Have you ever made your own hot chocolate or hot cocoa from scratch? Since a carton of hot cocoa is so inexpensive, you may ask why make your own? Besides taste, here is another reason. Here is a list of ingredients on the label of a popular hot cocoa mix. Sugar, corn syrup, modified whey, cocoa processed with alkali, hydrogenated coconut oil, nonfat milk, calcium carbonate, less than 2% of salt, dipotassium phosphate, mono- and diglycerides, carrageenan, acesulfame potassium, sucralose, & artificial flavor. To be fair this same company also offers a line called Simply Cocoa and has a much shorter & cleaner ingredient list: sugar, cocoa (processed with alkali), nonfat milk, salt & natural flavor.

If you like a shorter ingredient list, try making your own hot chocolate/cocoa mix. As I have often mentioned in prior Cooking Tips, the fewer ingredients you have in a dish, the more important it is to have good quality ingredients. Therefore, seek out good chocolate.

At its simplest, hot chocolate is just chocolate that has been shaved or cut up very small and melted with hot milk or cream. You may choose to add flavorings such as cinnamon, vanilla or cayenne. If you want a recipe, there are plenty available. As you look at these, you will see some of the best have a mixture of cocoa powder and good quality bittersweet chocolate.

Here is one from Epicurious that I have tried and can attest that is very good. Here is another one from The Kitchn. I have not tried this one but it looks very yummy.

If you want to try something a bit more involved but which sounds interesting, check out this recipe from Serious Eats. It takes its sugar to another level by toasting it first. It also contains more ingredients, including both white and dark chocolate, cocoa, expresso powder and malted milk powder. I haven’t had the time to try this one, yet. If any of you do, please let me know what you think.

I’m hoping that the type of weather that makes you want to drink hot chocolate (or hot cocoa) will soon be behind us, but until then, enjoy a delicious cup!

Cooking Tips · Techniques

Do you need a kitchen torch?

culinaryjourneysllc

There are certain kitchen tools that might be considered “essential” to a well-stocked kitchen and then there are others that are “nice to have”. A kitchen torch would, for most of us, be in the latter category. In this Cooking Tip, I want to discuss the uses for this tool as well as some shopping suggestions.

One of the main purposes for a kitchen torch is to apply a brûléed top to certain dishes. Another way of saying this is to caramelize the top. The most classic example is as in a crème brûlée. To make this dish, you make a type of custard, sprinkle sugar over the top and, with a flame, melt the sugar and turn it into a crunchy, caramelized top. Although some recipes will recommend using a broiler for this, a kitchen torch is an easier method with more control over the amount and depth of caramelization.

Custards are not the only dishes which benefit from a small amount of torching. Other dishes that you can brûlée are oatmeal, grapefruit, fresh figs, apples, bananas, goat cheese, cheesecake and so much more.

There are more uses to a kitchen torch than just making a brûléed topping. They are an easy way of getting that wonderful melted and brown cheesy topping on a bowl of French onion soup. Those browned tips on your meringue pie are a cinch with a kitchen torch. Another great idea is to torch your mac & cheese topping in lieu of putting it in the oven if you are impatient for that wonderful cheesy dish.

Have you got the makings for s’mores but no campfire? With a kitchen torch, you can enjoy these in a just a few minutes. I have never tried this but some cooks use their kitchen torches for charring the skin of tomatoes and peppers. This will give you a nice smoky taste and make it easier to peel the item. Some even use it to apply a quick final browning to a piece of meat.

Are you convinced that you need to get a kitchen torch? If so, the next question is which one to buy. I have one made by Kitchen Craft but certainly would not recommend that one. It is much too wimpy to be of much good. On the other side of the spectrum is just using a large propane torch that you would buy at a hardware store. That will certainly do the job, but if you are faint of heart (as I am), it might be a bit intimidating.

There are a few things you should look for when shopping for a kitchen torch. First, you don’t want it too heavy to use easily and it should feel comfortable in your hand. The flame should be adjustable so you can use it for many different tasks. For safety purposes, it is nice to have a lock to prevent it from activating when you don’t want it to do so. Although not necessary, a fuel gauge so you can see how much fuel you have is very useful. Take a look at the warranty, too, in case you have problem after purchasing it.

Different sources recommend different torches but there are some that come up repeatedly in reviews. First is the Iwatani Cooking Torch. Rösle is another brand that comes highly rated. A third quality company is Messermeister. Another brand to take a look at is BonJour. They have a few different models.

Do you have a kitchen torch that you love? Let me know which one it is. Do you have any special ways in which you use it? Please share your favorites!

Happy Bruleeing and Happy Torching!

Cooking Tips · Ingredients

An Onion Primer

culinaryjourneysllc2 Comments

Onions are one of those foods that every cook needs in their pantry. They are the basis of so many savory dishes. All the different types of onions can mean that such a simple vegetable can become confusing. In this Cooking Tip, I would like to try to clarify a bit about onions although it won’t be an exhaustive list of onion types. (For a much more in-depth discussion of onion types, refer to the National Onion Association website – yes there really is such an organization.)

Even though you can find onions in your supermarket year-round, they actually are seasonal. Spring/Summer onions are available March through August. Because they have just recently been harvested, they tend to be milder in flavor and, therefore, can be used in a raw form as well as cooked. Fall/Winter onions (aka storage onions) are left to grow longer resulting in larger onions with thicker skins and less moisture content. This means they last longer in storage but are also more pungent in flavor. To reduce this pungency, they are best in cooked applications.

Scallions are also known as green onions. (Some food experts would disagree with this generalization.) They are long and thin with a white bottom and dark green tops. They have a mild taste and can be used raw or cooked. They are wonderful thrown on a mixed green salad. I also love them as one of the toppings on a bowl of chili.

Spring onions are very young storage onions. They are harvested very early, which results in thin skins and a mild flavor. They look similar to scallions but have a larger bulb at the bottom. Although they are slightly spicier than scallions, they can still be used in a raw manner. They will sweeten up when cooked and are often grilled.

Shallots are small in size and range in color from white to rose. They are fairly mild and are often used in making sauces, vinaigrettes as well as Asian dishes.

Yellow onions are the most all-purpose. According to the National Onion Association, these onions account for about 87% of the onion crop in the US. If a recipe does not specify what type of onion, reach for one of these. They definitely have an onion flavor but are not overpowering. Although not great in a raw form, they turn wonderfully sweet when cooked.

Spanish onions look similar to yellow onions and may be displayed next to each other in the store. Because they are grown in a low sulfur soil, they are less pungent and tend towards sweetness. Beware, however, some stores do not differentiate between Spanish and yellow onions.

White onions are a staple in Mexican cooking. Some think they are milder and sweeter than yellow onions but they do tend to be tangier.

Red onions are often eaten raw but they can be fairly pungent. They are great for pickling and for topping tacos, chili or burgers. They also make a great addition to a roasted vegetable dish.

Leeks are also in the onion family. They have the shape of scallions but are much larger in size. Whereas the green portion of scallions can be eaten, the green part of leeks is very woody and is only good for flavoring stock. The white portion, however, is very mild and sweet. Despite that, they are usually not eaten raw as they tend to be fibrous in texture. They are a great base for certain soups and I make a great chicken pie that uses leeks and garlic as flavoring elements.

Sweet onions such as Vidalia and Walla Walla are very low in pyruvic acid. This is the component that makes your eyes tear when cutting them. Because of this, they are extremely mild in flavor. Another onion I have recently discovered is Sunions. Grown only in Nevada and Washington, they are a result of cross-breeding to produce a tearless, sweet and mild onion. The company claims to certify these characteristics before shipping to grocery stores. I recently received some samples and have just started trying them. Although I need to test them more, they do indeed seem to live up to their claims. I just saw that my local King Soopers (a Kroger store) has started carrying these.

Pearl onions are very small onions that are also mild. Although most often found in a white variety, pearl onions can also be yellow or red. They are generally not found loose and often hard to find fresh. Bags of frozen, pre-peeled pearl onions are usually fairly easy to find. Uses include pickling dishes & casseroles and even as a separate side dish.

Chives are relatives of onions but we also consider them an herb. They have a very mild onion flavor and, therefore, are often eaten raw in salads. They are also great sprinkled on an omelet and other dishes where you want a mild onion flavor. They make a nice garnish because of their vibrant green color. Cooking them is not recommended due to flavor loss.

With all these options, what should you keep around at all times? The answer may vary according to how you cook but I always have all-purpose yellow onions on hand. I also have a red onion available, a bunch or two of green onions as well as a few shallots. With these, I can make almost any onion-containing dish.

 

 

Cooking Tips · Techniques

Instant Read Thermometers

culinaryjourneysllc3 Comments

All of us have many different tools in our kitchen. One tool all of us should seriously consider adding to our tool chests is a good instant-read thermometer. It has so many uses to improve your cooking from ensuring meats are safe to eat but not overcooked to monitoring critical temperatures in candy making to helping to achieve a wonderful custard. I was recently asked how to know which thermometer to buy and which ones are accurate. That is the subject of this Cooking Tip. This post contains affiliate links and I may earn a commission if you decide to purchase.

I have my favorite instant-read thermometer – the Thermapen from Thermoworks. As these are more expensive than many other thermometers, I also want to tell you how to ensure whatever thermometer you use is giving you accurate readings.

Whatever thermometer you use should be checked for accuracy, preferably by the use of an ice water bath. To be useful, though, this has to be a properly made ice bath. To achieve this, fill a container with ice all the way to the top. If possible, use crushed ice as there will be fewer gaps between the ice. Add water to this container so that it reaches to about ½ inch below the top of the ice. If the ice is floating off the bottom, pour off some water and add more ice. If you have water below the level of ice, it will not be accurate. Insert your thermometer probe and stir in the center. Allow enough time for the reading to stabilize. If you keep stirring, the probe will not rest against an ice cube, which may give an inaccurate reading. Similarly, do not allow the probe to rest against the sides or bottom of the container. Now, your thermometer should read 32°F. If it does not, you should first check the documentation that came with the thermometer to determine whether the reading is within the manufacturer’s accuracy specifications. If it is within that range, do not try to adjust it. If the reading is outside that range, refer to your instruction manual to adjust the thermometer. If you would like a printable chart that details these steps, email me.

Some ask if they can instead use a pot of boiling water to check the accuracy of the thermometer. One of the problems with this is that the temperature at which water boils varies by your elevation. At sea level it is 212°F but this drops approximately 2°F for every 1000 feet you rise in elevation. You need to know what the boiling point is at your location to use this method. For an easy-to-use online calculator, see this link.

Once you know your boiling point, you can use the following method. Fill a saucepan at least four inches deep with water. Place the pot on the stovetop and allow the water to come to a rolling boil. When it comes to a boil, insert your thermometer probe a few inches into the water and wait until the reading stabilizes. Do not let the probe touch the sides or bottom of the pot. Keep it suspended in the water in the middle of the pot. Take this reading and compare it to your locale’s boiling point.

Another theoretical problem with using this method is that impurities or salt in the water can affect the boiling temperature of water. Therefore, ensure your water is as clean as possible.

Once you have an accurately-reading thermometer, your next step is to use it properly. To do this, the tip of the probe should be used and it should be placed in the center of the thickest portion of the food. If the food item is large, be sure to take readings in several places. Insert the probe into the food and push past the center, watching how the temperature reading changes. Then, withdraw the probe, again watching the readings. Typically, the center will have the lowest reading and, therefore, is the best place to gauge doneness.

We are so blessed in our world today to have such great technological advancements that can enhance the results of our cooking endeavors. The food thermometer is just one of those advancements that I encourage all of you to consider.

Cooking Tips · Ingredients

Chocolate Tidbits

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As February – and thus Valentine’s Day – approaches, chocolate may be entering your mind. Or, if you are like me, chocolate is never far from your mind! In this Cooking Tip, I would like to talk a bit about this delightful ingredient.

Chocolate comes from the cacao tree, which produces cacao pods. These pods contain cocoa beans and when the husks are removed from the beans and the beans are roasted and dried, you are left with cocoa nibs. These nibs are then ground to produce what is termed cocoa mass or cocoa liquor. This cocoa liquor is the main ingredient in chocolate. It is composed of cocoa particles suspended in 50-60% cocoa butter. When this chocolate liquor is further processed and mixed with sugar, cocoa butter and sometimes milk solids, you end up with what we think of as chocolate.

When you look at chocolate in the supermarket that is meant for culinary purposes, you will be faced with terms such as white, milk, semisweet, bittersweet or unsweetened. You may also see the term “dark” chocolate, which is often accompanied by a chocolate percentage. Let’s delve a little deeper into these terms by looking at requirements that the FDA has set for some of these terms.

Unsweetened chocolate is solid chocolate liquor. It will sometimes be labeled as 100% chocolate. It has its place in baking but is extremely bitter, unsuitable for munching.

For milk chocolate, the FDA specifies it must contain not less than 10 percent chocolate liquor. You may not know the exact percentage as often the manufacturer does not list a chocolate percentage on these bars. Other ingredients that are allowed are cocoa fat, sweeteners, spices, nuts, flavorings, dairy products and emulsifying ingredients.

White chocolate contains no cocoa solids but only cocoa butter – not less than 20% according to the FDA. Other allowable ingredients include sweeteners, dairy products, spices, nuts, flavorings and emulsifying ingredients.

The FDA does not distinguish between bittersweet and semisweet chocolate. To be labeled such, it needs to contain at least 35% chocolate liquor. This low amount may be surprising to you as I suspect most of us think that to be called bittersweet or semisweet, it should contain at least 50% chocolate liquor. As with the other types, the FDA allows cocoa fat, sweeteners, spices, nuts, flavorings, emulsifying agents and even dairy. This, again, may be surprising to you as I think many of us assume dark chocolate will not contain any dairy. Many do not. However, the FDA tested nearly 100 dark chocolate bars looking for the presence of milk. They found that 61% of the bars contained milk, including those that did not list milk as an ingredient. They postulate this may be due to the fact that companies use the same equipment to process both milk and dark chocolate and so there may be traces of milk on the equipment that makes its way into the dark chocolate. If you want more info on this study, email me.

Another label that we often see on chocolate bars in the store is “dark” chocolate. This is not a term defined by the FDA. However, it is generally thought of as a product with a higher percentage of chocolate liquor and no milk products. Many do, though, contain milk. These are what we think of when we see bars labeled such as 60%, 70%, etc.

Coating chocolate (or melting wafers) are not real chocolate at all. Although some of them may contain some cocoa, a look at the ingredient list will show you how far they are from real chocolate. The advantage of this product is that it does not require tempering to give you a hard & shiny coating that does not melt in your hand. If you have ever made candy or truffles and coated them with melted chocolate, you will quickly see why tempering is important. Without tempering the coating will be dull, soft and melt in your hands. Tempering is a method of melting and cooling the chocolate so that specific fat crystals form. This results in chocolate that is shiny, has a snap when broken and does not melt in your hand.

What is the best type of chocolate to use for your culinary needs? I always recommend starting with whatever is specified in your recipe. If it calls for dark chocolate, something around 60% would be a good place to start.

As far as brand of chocolate, everyone has their favorites. I did a little research to see what the food community thought. As can be expected, there were a wide variety of opinions – too many to even report. An excellent brand to start with is Ghiradelli, especially if you want dark chocolate. It is also readily available in most supermarkets. For unsweetened chocolate, Baker’s unsweetened baking bar is preferred by many and, again, should be in your local supermarket.

Another question that is often asked is if you can substitute chocolate chips for chocolate bars. As with so many questions, the answer is “It depends”. First, it depends on the brand. Some chocolate chips (including Ghiradelli) have the same ingredients as the bars and thus, you most likely can substitute without problems. However, some chocolate chip brands contain added stabilizers that help them hold their shape when baked. You would not want to use these for making candy, truffles, puddings, etc. However, they will work just fine in brownies or bars.

Enjoy your chocolate in whatever form you prefer. Bake something special, munch on a box of truffles or indulge in a decadent hot chocolate!