When you hear the word Meringue, what do you think of? Do you think of that soft and fluffy topping on your lemon pie? Or, do you think of the swirly, crisp cookies that melt in your mouth? What meringue is and how to make it is the subject of this Cooking Tip.

By definition, meringue is a mixture of beaten egg whites and sugar. It can be as soft as what you find on that pie or a Baked Alaska. It can also be baked into what is termed a hard meringue. Examples of these are little meringue cookies or a Pavlova. The latter is a dessert with a hard meringue base topped with fruit and whipped cream.

Since egg whites are the main ingredient, one must know how to separate the egg whites from the yolks. Eggs are easiest to separate when they are cold. However, they whip up faster and with more volume when at room temperature. Therefore, one of your first steps is to take your eggs out of the refrigerator and separate them. Put them in a bowl and allow to set at room temperature while you finish your prep for the particular recipe.

Have you ever had a time when you just couldn’t get the egg whites to whip up properly? If that happens, the main culprit is fat. The presence of fat in the egg whites prevents them from whipping up in volume and texture.

Here are tips to help you have success in whipping egg whites.

1. Fat may be present if you allow some of the egg yolks to get into the whites. To prevent this, consider using the three-bowl technique for separating your eggs.

• Separate one egg putting the white into Bowl #1 and the yolk into Bowl #2.
• Separate the remaining eggs one at a time, allowing the white to drip into Bowl #3.
• After each one, put the yolk with the other ones in Bowl #2.
• If the egg white you have put into Bowl #3 looks clean of yolk, add it to Bowl #1. This way, if you accidentally get yolk into a white, you can set it aside so it doesn’t contaminate all the whites in Bowl #1.

• Always use a clean glass or metal bowl. Try not to use a plastic bowl as they will often have a coating of fat on them, inhibiting whipping.

• Ensure your beating implements (mixer blades, whisks) are clean of any fat.

• Cream of tartar – adding a small amount of this ingredient helps to stabilize the egg whites. Use ⅛ teaspoon for every egg white.

There are three basic methods of making meringue.

• French meringue is made by beating egg whites to the foamy stage (45-60 seconds), slowly adding sugar, and continuing to beat into a soft, airy, light mixture. This method can be a bit fussy as adding the sugar too early or too late can lead to disappointing results.

• Cooks Illustrated tested the timing of adding sugar to the egg whites.
  • They made three batches each of meringue cookies, angel food cake and chiffon cake. They varied when they added the sugar – before whipping, after a minute of whipping and at the end.
  • The best result for all the tests was adding the sugar after a minute of whipping. Adding at the beginning gave dry cakes. Adding at the end resulted in dense and crumbly cakes.
• For meringues, adding at the start gave dull cookies with a very fine crumb. Adding late resulted in an overly airy and grainy texture. They compared the taste to Styrofoam.

• It is also helpful to add the sugar a couple of tablespoons at a time until it has all been incorporated. Adding the sugar slowly ensures all the sugar is dissolved. This type of meringue is the least stable. Therefore, it is usually used when it is going to be baked – either in a cake batter, meringue cookies or a meringue shell.

• Cooks Illustrated also tested the speed of whipping the egg whites.
  • They tested this with meringue cookies, meringue frosting, chocolate mousse and chiffon cakes. They tried two methods of whipping – slowly until foamy and then finishing on high and beating on high the entire time.
  • The slow start produced a meringue about 10% more in volume. This gave cookies and frosting that were lighter and airier.
  • With the cakes, they were indistinguishable.

• Swiss meringue is prepared by putting the egg whites and sugar into a bowl that sits above boiling water – a type of bain marie. When the mixture reaches a temperature of about 120° to 140°F, the mixture is removed from the heat and then beaten to stiff peaks. This method results in a less fluffy meringue than French and less stable than Italian. The recipe testers at Serious Eats claim to have found a technique that will make your Swiss meringue as light as a French meringue but as stable as Italian. They do this by cooking it to a higher temperature – up to 175°F. They also whip it vigorously at high speed for about 5 minutes until it is glossy, thick & stiff. This type of meringue is often used as the base for buttercream frosting. Cooks Illustrated agrees with a higher temperature. They recommend heating the whites to 160°F and increasing the amount of sugar to make pavlovas, saying it produces the result of a crisp shell with a marshmallow-like interior

• Italian meringue starts by putting the egg whites into your mixer bowl and beating to soft peaks. Then, a sugar syrup that has been heated to 240°F is slowly drizzled in while you continue to whip until the meringue is very voluminous and reaches the desired peak. Because this sugar syrup is very hot, one must be very careful when using this method to prevent burns. It is the most stable of the meringues but is also heavy and thick. It is used to make nougat and is also the best for topping meringue pies.

What are the culinary uses for meringues?

• Meringue-topped pies or Baked Alaska
  • A French meringue is recommended for these recipes.
  • Because the meringue is made with raw egg whites, be sure to bake it so that the internal temperature reaches 160°F.
  • Because of this concern, some recommend using meringue powder as the egg whites have been pasteurized. It is made with dried, powdered egg whites and also contains sugar, silicon dioxide, corn starch, citric acid and cream of tartar. Cooks Illustrated tested this product to see if it would work in making pavlova, uncooked royal icing, and seven-minute frosting. In all the tests, they found the meringues were dense and grainy, and the frostings were extremely sweet and thin. For these reasons, they do not recommend this product.

• Meringue cookies are small, light cookies with a crunch throughout.
  • A French meringue is typical.

• Pavlova is like a large meringue cookie, but whereas it has a crispy shell, the interior is more marshmallow-like with a chewy texture.
  • It is generally made with a French meringue to which cornstarch and an acid (usually white vinegar) are added along with flavorings. It is then spread out on a parchment-lined baking sheet and baked in a low oven until the outside is crisp. The oven is then turned off, and the meringue is left inside the oven to finish drying out.
  • Cooks illustrated tried making a pavlova with an Italian meringue. Although the usual temperature the meringue is cooked to is 140°F, the resulting meringues were coarse and had a pitted exterior. They increased the temperature that they cooked the egg whites to 160°F. This gave a smoother texture, but the exterior was too soft. They found that increasing the amount of sugar gave them the crispy shell they wanted. They recommend 1 ½ cups of sugar to ¾ cup of egg whites. Because the ratio is important, they recommend measuring or weighing these ingredients. For large eggs, this will probably be six egg whites.
  • Typical pavlova recipes call for adding cornstarch and vinegar to the egg whites after whipping. They also tested this and found it solid advice. They recommend adding 1½ teaspoons of each.

A final interesting point is for those of you who would like a plant-based alternative, and that is aquafaba. Aquafaba is the liquid from a can of chickpeas. Cooks Illustrated tested this using four ounces of aquafaba and four egg whites. They heated the aquafaba and dissolved the sugar in it. After allowing the mixture to cool, they added cornstarch and whipped it with salt, vanilla and cream of tartar. They were pleasantly surprised that the result was a whipped-up mixture that was sticky and “taffy-like.” So, if you want an egg-free alternative, give it a try!

As baking season progresses, I hope you consider making meringues. A browned meringue-topped pie is beautiful on your table. A pavlova with its crisp white base and the topping of fresh fruit and cream is a showstopper. Little meringue cookies are not only wonderful to eat, but they also make very nice gifts, especially when flavored and colored.

Happy Baking!

One of my favorite types of cake to make is a Cake Roll. What it is and how to successfully make it is the subject of this Cooking Tip.

If you wish to delve into more detail about making cakes in general, I suggest looking at these other Cooking Tips.

• Cake Ingredients
• Cake Mixing Methods
• Cake Flour
• Cake Pan Sizes

For this Cooking Tip, let’s narrow our focus to Cake Rolls, also known as Roll Cakes. You might have heard other names, such as Swiss Roll or Roulade. No matter its name, in its simplest form, a Cake Roll is a light cake that has been rolled and filled with jam or other filling and often dusted with powdered sugar.

The type of cake is a sponge cake. They have a light and airy texture that is achieved by folding whipped egg whites into a batter made of beaten yolks and sugar. This lightness helps you to be able to roll it without it breaking.

You do not have to be limited to the rolled shape. That same cake batter and baking method will leave you with a blank canvas to turn into other shapes and delightful creations. More on that below.

Let’s start with some general Cake Making Tips that will help you no matter what kind of cake you are making.

• Baking cakes, especially if you live at a high altitude, is not a time to fly by the seat of your pants. It is, rather, a time to follow the recipe exactly. The only variations would be those you make at high altitudes.
• Buy a food scale and weigh the ingredients. It is more accurate than cup measures and will yield better results.
• Pay attention to temperatures called for in the recipe. If it specifies room-temperature ingredients, you will only get the desired result if you heed that advice.
• Butter should be unsalted unless otherwise specified. If all you have is salted butter, reduce the salt in the recipe by ¼ tsp for each 4 ounces of butter. If you do much baking, try to always have unsalted butter on hand. It keeps wonderfully in the freezer, and you will not have to make adjustments.
• Use the appropriate pan sizes. Some adjustments can be made, but using the size called for is best.
• Try not to use dark-colored pans as they will not give you the desired result of a golden, moist, tender cake.
• Most recipes will call for greasing the cake pans. Even better is to grease the pan, line it with parchment, and grease again. For bundt-style cakes, grease the pan thoroughly and sprinkle lightly with flour or use a flour-based pan spray. See this Cooking Tip for more information about these sprays.
• Allow enough time to preheat your oven thoroughly. Using an oven thermometer to check its accuracy is also a good idea.

Now, let’s focus on Cake Rolls in particular.

Ingredients

• Most cake rolls only contain eggs, sugar and flour.
• Most cake roll recipes will have you beat the yolks and whites separately.
• Eggs separate more easily when cold but whip up better at room temperature. So, take eggs out of the refrigerator, separate but then allow them to come to room temperature before proceeding with the recipe.

Baking the Cake

• Follow the recipe carefully in terms of the order of adding ingredients.
• The type of pan you will be using is a baking sheet. Some companies will label them as a Jelly Roll pan.
• Prepare your pan carefully by lining it with parchment paper, then spraying it with a non-stick spray. Careful attention to this will help keep your beautiful cake from sticking to the pan.
• Spread cake batter evenly in the pan. Using an off-set spatula will help you get it level.
• Do not overbake. Press lightly on the top of the cake. If it springs back, it is done.
• Do not bake until the cake is brown, as this will cause it to dry out and become brittle.

Rolling the cake – three methods

One important tip that applies to all these methods is to roll the cake while still warm to minimize cracking.

• Rolling Method 1
  • Place a non-lint tea towel on a cooling rack and sprinkle generously with powdered sugar to prevent sticking.
  • Remove cake from oven. Gently run a knife around the cake to loosen the edges.
  • Turn the cake onto the prepared towel and rack.
  • Remove pan and parchment.
  • Sprinkle the surface with powdered sugar.
  • Place another tea towel on top of powdered sugar.
  • Place another rack on top of the towel.
  • Grab the entire stack (from rack to rack) and turn it over.
  • Roll the cake while still warm, rolling the towel inside the cake.
  • Cool on rack for at least 30 minutes.
  • Unroll and fill as desired.
  • Reroll cake around filling.

• Rolling Method 2
  • Remove cake from oven and loosen edges.
  • Sprinkle the surface with sugar.
  • Place parchment on top of the cake, followed by a towel that has been slightly dampened with a spray bottle of water.
  • Cover the stack with another baking sheet. Flip over.
  • Allow to rest for 3-5 minutes.
  • Remove baking sheet.
  • Slightly moisten parchment with a spray bottle of water and wait about 1 minute before removing it from the cake.
  • Your cake should be warm but not hot for the rolling step.
  • Roll with the damp towel and parchment inside.
  • Allow to cool.
  • Unroll and fill as desired.
  • Reroll cake around filling.

• Rolling Method 3
  • Lay a tea towel on the counter and sprinkle generously with powdered sugar.
  • Remove cake from oven and invert onto towel.
  • Remove parchment.
  • Roll the cake up with towel inside.
  • Allow to cool.
  • Unroll and fill as desired.
  • Reroll cake around filling.
    
    

Filling the cake

• Choose a filling that is spreadable and not runny.
  • Leave a quarter inch around the edge without filling.
  • Do not add too much filling, as it will make rolling difficult and squeeze out the edges.

Non-Rolled cakes

You may branch out and assemble in a non-rolled form using this same wonderful type of cake. Let’s look at two ideas.

Stacked cake

• After removing the cake from the oven onto a cooling rack, run the tip of a small knife around the edges to loosen it.
• Allow to cool for about 15 minutes.
• Sift powdered sugar over the surface and cover with a tea towel, followed by a second rack.
• Flip the racks, remove the pan and parchment.
• Allow to cool completely.
• Cut your cooled cake into four rectangles. You may wish to carefully trim away about ¼ inch of the edges for a clean look.
• Stack the rectangles on top of each other with your preferred filling between the layers.
• You may top the cake with powdered sugar or even apply a chocolate glaze.

Wrapped cake

• After removing the cake from the oven onto a cooling rack, run the tip of a small knife around the edges to loosen it.
• Sift powdered sugar over the cake.
• Cut the cake into five equal rectangles.
• Cover one rectangle with a tea towel or paper towel separately.
• Cover the other four rectangles with a different towel.
• Place another cooling rack on top and flip.
• Remove pan and parchment.
• Take the one rectangle that is covered separately and roll it up.
• Place on a rack and allow to cool.
• Allow other rectangles to cool in their flat state.
• Unroll the cooled rectangle and remove the towel.
• Cut the non-curled edge at an angle to create a beveled edge.
• Do the same on both ends of the flat rectangles.
• Spread filling on rectangles.
• Re-roll the one curled rectangle and set it on your plate upright with the cut side up.
• Take a second strip and wrap around this first layer, using the beveled edges to nestle within each other. Place this second strip so that one edge aligns with the edge of the first strip. Continue with other rectangles, gently pressing the layers together as you proceed.
• Spread more filling on the outside of the cake to give the appearance of a frosted cake.
• This type of cake needs a few hours to set up before cutting so the layers stay together.

I hope you give Cake Rolls a try. They may look difficult but are not if you follow the above tips.

Happy Baking!

As we are speeding towards the holidays, last week’s Cooking Tip was about freezing food in general. In this Cooking Tip, I want to concentrate on an item that will be on almost all our holiday tables – Holiday Pies.

As I mentioned in the last Cooking Tip, you may not have freezer space for whole pies. If you do, the questions are: what sorts of pie freeze well, are there any that you shouldn’t freeze and should you bake before freezing?

America’s Test Kitchen tested several different pies in different states. Although the following are their findings, most pie experts agree with them. When there are other options, I will discuss them.

Fruit pies

• Freeze unbaked. They found that if baked before freezing, the pie crusts tended to be soggy when thawed. The filling did not taste as vibrant as it would have if baked and never frozen. On the other hand, pies that had been frozen unbaked were found to be indistinguishable from freshly baked pies.
• They recommend freezing the pie until solid before wrapping it in plastic wrap as it leads to less damage to the crust.
• Their technique:
  • Assemble the pie.
  • Do not apply an egg wash or sugar.
  • Freeze, uncovered, until firm.
  • Wrap in a double layer of plastic wrap and then in foil. Return to freezer.
  • Write the recipe’s original instructions on a label and affix it to the outside.
  • Freeze no longer than two months.
• To bake a frozen fruit pie:
  • Do not thaw.
  • Brush crust with egg wash and sugar sprinkles, if desired.
  • Bake at the specified temperature, but increase the time by 10-15 minutes.
  • If the crust starts to brown too much, cover it with a pie shield.

Pumpkin pie

• Although some chefs say you can successfully freeze pumpkin pies, most sources (including America’s Test Kitchen) caution against freezing these pies. The custard filling turns out grainy and wet and it very likely will have a soggy crust.
• They found the same results whether frozen baked or unbaked.
• The science of this has to do with the egg proteins unraveling and forming a gel that holds water. Since there is a lot of water in the dairy and pumpkin, this leads to ice crystals and unpleasant results. They recommend finding a recipe that does not use eggs if you want to freeze your pumpkin (or other custard or cream) pies.

Pecan pie

• America’s Test Kitchen found that pecan pies froze well, either baked or unbaked. Even though there are eggs, there is very little water, as in pumpkin pies, minimizing the problems one finds when freezing pumpkin pies.
• Their technique:
  • Unbaked
    • Pour filling into a pre-baked shell, cool and wrap as above.
    • To bake, do not thaw, but increase baking time by about 30 minutes.
  • Baked
    • Cool and wrap as above.
    • To serve, unwrap and thaw on the counter, which could take up to 3 hours. You may also allow it to thaw in the refrigerator overnight.
• Freeze for up to 2 months.

Freezing pie filling

• Another option for fruit pies is to make and freeze your filling. Later, thaw it overnight in the refrigerator and continue with making your pie.
• Michigan State University Extension recommends the following technique.
  • Add ½ tablespoon of cornstarch or 1-2 tablespoons of flour to the filling.
  • Line your pie pan with foil, pour in the filling and freeze in the pan.
  • Once firm, remove from pan, wrap and return to the freezer.
• They also recommend adding the same amount of cornstarch or flour to fruit pies that you are going to freeze unbaked.
• An additional dusting of cornstarch on the pastry before adding the filling helps decrease sogginess.

Freezing pie crusts

A third option is to make and freeze the crust. There are three ways.

• Make and portion your pie pastry.
  • Form into disks and wrap securely.
  • When it is time to make a pie, allow the crust to thaw, roll out and continue with making your pie.
• Roll out your pie crust and freeze either baked or unbaked.
  • Unbaked crusts will last in the freezer for about 2-3 months.
  • Baked crusts last about 4-6 months.
• For unbaked crusts, do not thaw. Bake them directly out of the freezer.
• Thaw a baked crust by allowing it to stand at room temperature or heat in a 350°F oven for about 5 minutes.

Baking frozen pies

• As mentioned above, do not thaw your frozen pies before baking.
• You will need extra baking time. Most sources recommend adding anywhere between 15 and 30 minutes. However, it may take more or less. Watch your pie and bake until the filling is bubbling.

With these make-ahead tips for your holiday pies, you can minimize the stress of getting that holiday dinner on the table.

(Updated September 2022)

In the last few Cooking Tips, we have been discussing how to put that perfect pie on your dinner table. We looked at ingredients and techniques for making a great pie crust. You are now ready to put it in the oven but there is another subject to discuss – blind baking your pie crust. That is the subject of this Cooking Tip.

Blind baking a pie crust is simply pre-baking your crust (either partially or totally) before adding your filling. So, when do you blind bake your crust? The simple answer you might say is – when the recipe tells you to do so. Yes, that is true, but there are general guidelines to let you know whether you should do this.

Pies that have fillings that are not baked require a fully baked pie crust. An example is a yummy French Silk Pie. Since the pie is not going into the oven after adding the filling, the pie crust needs to be fully baked.

Other times you want to blind bake is with custard pies or pies with delicate fillings. With custard pies (such as pumpkin), the moisture in the filling might make the crust soggy before the crust is fully baked. Partially baking the crust before adding the filling helps to prevent this. There are also some delicate fillings that are only briefly cooked on the stovetop. If you do not blind bake the crust but rather put the filling in an unbaked crust, the filling would be over-cooked before the crust is fully baked. An example is Chocolate Cream pie.

One time you do not want to blind bake is if you are making a double-crust pie. If you blind bake the bottom crust, your top crust won’t adhere to the bottom crust. If your filling is such that you would prefer a blind-baked crust to prevent sogginess, you can place decorative pieces of crust over the top to give you a type of open double crust such as in this Gooseberry Pie recipe.

Blind baking is not as simple as putting your unfilled pie crust in the oven. If you do that without adding some weight, your pie crust will puff up – not ideal if you want to put a delicious filling into it. It also makes it much more likely that the sides of your crust will droop before it sets.

Now we know why we need to blind bake a crust, how do we do it? There are three recommended ways depending on what you are looking for in your finished pie.

If you want a pie with a pretty crimped edge or you have a tall crust, line the unbaked crust with foil or parchment making sure it fully covers the crust and the edges of the pie crust. Foil is often preferred over parchment as you can get it into the corners better as well as folding it over the crust to prevent overbrowning. Fill the crust at least 2/3 full with something to weight the crust down as it bakes. I love ceramic pie weights. They conduct heat well and fill up the entire crust. Just make sure you have enough to fully cover the crust. I tend to use two boxes of these for one pie crust.

You have probably heard that you can use dry beans or rice. Those are poor heat conductors resulting in a longer baking time to get to the proper stage.  Another option is granulated sugar, an excellent heat conductor.

Stacey Ballis with My Recipes did an experiment testing different types of weights. Her favorite method was granulated sugar, which conducts heat as well as the ceramic weights but gets into the corners of the pie crust better. She uses the sugar a couple of times and then uses it in her baking. Since it has slightly caramelized by being in the oven, she recommends using it for meringues. Serious Eats agrees with this choice. If you don’t want to use sugar, the ceramic weights are a close second.

As I discussed in last week’s Tip, you should have chilled your pie crust. If you haven’t done that by this step, you may chill it with the weights in place. After chilling, place it in a 375° oven for 20 minutes. Remove from oven and carefully remove the very hot pie weights. Prick the bottom with a fork and return crust to the oven. If you will be baking the pie filling, bake the crust for another 5-8 minutes. If you are not baking the filling, bake the crust for another 12-20 minutes until fully baked. This method should work for most pie crusts but some recipes may have slightly different baking temperatures and times.

A second method is called the “Low & Slow” method. With this method, the pie crust is baked at 350° with pie weights in place for an hour. Baking at a more moderate heat is said to reduce shrinkage & puffing.

A third method is to sandwich the crust between two pans and bake upside down. This method is good for pies with a flat edge that do not need the extra height or when you are not looking for a decorative edge. To use this method, place the crust in the pan and flatten its edge. Spray the outside of another pie pan and nestle into the crust. You may also line the crust with parchment before putting pans together. At this point, chill for 30 minutes to solidify fats and prevent shrinkage.

Now, place the pans upside down on a baking sheet so that the empty pan is on the bottom. Bake for 20 minutes in 375° oven. As the proponents of this method say, “Gravity ensures that as your crust slips ‘down’ the side of the pan, it’s actually moving up!” When baked, remove from the oven and use a spatula to carefully turn over and prick with fork. Return the crust to the oven right side up without second pan and bake for 15-20 minutes until golden brown. You may now fill the crust. When would you want to do this method? It is ideal for pies where the edge of the pie is not as important as its top, such as Lemon Meringue.

What about your pie plate? That is the subject of next week’s Cooking Tip. See you then!

(Updated September 2022)

After discussing the ingredients you need to make a pie crust, I now want to turn to bringing that crust into reality. That is the subject of this week’s Cooking Tip – how to make a great pie crust. As you read this Tip, you will notice that I often give you different recommendations. Everyone has their preferred method and I want to give you alternatives so you can find what works best for you.

The first point I want to make is COLD is your friend when making pie crusts. The fat that you cut into the flour needs to stay solid as long as possible so that once it is in the oven, it will melt at the appropriate time creating steam and thus, the flaky layers we all crave in pie crusts.

The fist method is the hand method. Start by putting your flour and salt in a bowl and whisk together. I highly recommend weighing your ingredients but if not, measure carefully. At this point, if your kitchen is warm, you may want to refrigerate the bowl/ingredients/equipment. Your aim (no matter the ambient temperature) is a final dough temperature of 65° to 70°. Yes, you can take the temperature of your dough. Just one more reason to have a good digital thermometer in your kitchen armamentarium.

Serious Eats points out that if your room temperature is above 73°, everything that touches the dough will warm it. You may have noticed that your dough seems to need less water on a hot day. That is because the butter is softer making it act more like a liquid. Although you may be tempted to use less water, this may lead to a weaker dough giving you headaches when you try to roll it out.

A solution is to chill everything with an aim to keeping your dough temperature below 70°. Take everything (your bowl with the dry ingredients, your rolling pin and your pie pan) and put them all in the refrigerator. Your fat and your water should already be in there keeping COLD until you need them. If your countertop is warm, fill some plastic bags with ice water and place on the countertop to cool it.

Next, add your COLD fat – butter, shortening or a combination. If you are using a combination, cut up the shortening and add first. Mix it in until the mixture is like sand. Then, add your butter, which should be cut into small cubes, and toss gently in the flour. Working quickly, cut the butter into the flour. I think no tool works as well as your hands to do this step although you can use a pastry cutter. Using a snapping motion between your fingers and thumbs, you will flatten out the butter cubes. Continue this until all the butter is flattened. If your hands are warm, you may want to cool them under the cold tap first. Do not overmix – you want to be left with an uneven mixture with butter pieces that vary in size. Remember, this is what is going to give your crust its flaky layers. So, you do not want your butter to melt or totally disintegrate as you are doing this.

This is the point where you add the ICE water. One train of thought is to never add all the water at once. Add it incrementally so the dough does not get too wet. Start with drizzling in a few tablespoons and gently tossing the mixture. A bowl scraper works great for this. Continue until the dough holds together if you squeeze it in your palm. The reasoning for this is that excess water can lead to more gluten development. However, a too-dry dough can be very difficult to roll out.

Another point of view is that gluten is not necessarily the enemy of soft, flaky crusts. Adding the water listed in the recipe all at once and mixing until it comes together will give you a dough that is easier to roll out without tearing.

After adding the water and mixing, empty the bowl onto a very lightly floured surface or onto a piece of parchment paper. There are two ways you can proceed from here. The easiest is to just gently gather the dough into a ball. If it is still too dry, add more ice water but a small amount at a time. A spritz from a spray bottle may be all you need. If you have added too much water, sprinkle a bit more flour and gently mix it in.

A second way of finishing your pie dough is only slightly more work but gives you even more flaky layers. For this method, you may want to put your dough onto a piece of parchment. Press your dough into a rectangle and then, using the paper to assist you, fold it into thirds – just as you would a business letter — and then fold in half so it is square-shaped. If necessary, using a water bottle, spritz any dry areas with the ice water and then fold. You can also do this folding without parchment by putting your dough onto a floured counter and use a bench scraper to help with the folding.

At this point, shape your dough into the shape of the pan into which you will put it. This will make it easier to roll out to the correct shape. If you have made enough dough for a double crust, cut the dough in half before shaping. Some recommend rolling the shaped dough’s sides along a floured surface to smooth the edges.

J. Kenji Lopez-Alt, formerly of Serious Eats, loves using a food processor to make the dough. He claims his method creates a tender and flaky dough that is very easy to roll out. He puts 2/3 of the flour in the food processor bowl along with salt and any sugar and pulses to incorporate. He then adds the cut-up butter and pulse until all the dry flour is gone followed by spreading the dough around the bowl with a rubber spatula. The rest of the flour is sprinkled over the dough and pulsed until the dough is slightly broken up. At this point, transfer the dough to a bowl, sprinkle with water and use the spatula to fold and press the dough until it comes together into a ball. If you want to read about his reasoning, see this article.

No matter which of the mixing methods you use, you need to next chill the dough. One recommendation is to wrap your dough into plastic and put in the refrigerator for a minimum of 30 minutes. This hardens the fat, which has warmed and softened during the mixing process. It also allows the gluten to relax. You may wish to freeze the dough at this point for use at a future time. If so, wrap in plastic and then in foil before putting in the freezer.

When you are ready to actually assemble your pie, remove the chilled crust from the refrigerator. If it has chilled longer than 30 minutes, you may need to let it warm up just a bit on the counter, leaving it wrapped. It needs to be soft enough to roll but should still be cold to the touch. As you roll it out, you should see large pieces of flattened butter.

Since rolling the dough “wakes” up the gluten and softens the butter, a different recommendation is to roll out your dough and put it in the pan right after you make it. Then, chill it thoroughly in the pie pan – about two hours.

Transferring it to the pan can be done by folding the rolled-out dough into quarters, placing it in the pan and unfolding it. Another method is to gently roll the dough around your rolling pin and then unrolling it over your pan.

You are now ready to finish your pie, right? No, remember the word I mentioned in the beginning – COLD. You want to chill your pie crust before filling it. Once again, this chilling helps to solidify that wonderful fat as well as minimizing shrinkage during baking.

Some just recommend refrigerating the dough after being put in the pie plate. As you have mixed and rolled out the dough, the gluten strands that have developed are stretched and want to snap back. You have probably seen that as you roll your dough; it doesn’t always stay put but tends to shrink. Resting the dough allows the tension in the strands to ease so they remain stretched and don’t shrink back when heated. However, as the pie is baked, the dough is not well set by the time the butter vaporizes. So, the air pockets created by the steam when the butter melts disappear. The soft, not-yet-set dough sinks into those spaces resulting in less flakiness.

Others recommend freezing the dough before baking. As you bake frozen dough, it heats up and sets relatively quickly in comparison to the time it takes the butter to melt. By the time the water in the butter starts to turn to steam, the dough is well into its setting stage. The air spaces occupied by the frozen butter, now that it has largely turned to steam, hold their shape because the dough has started to set. Thus, flakier layers. The downside is that as the water freezes, it holds the stretched gluten in place rather than allowing it to relax. So, when you bake it, the gluten strands snap back and the crust shrinks.

Many recommend a compromise by first refrigerating the dough for approximately 40 minutes to relax the gluten to minimize shrinkage followed by putting it in the freezer for 20 minutes to improve flakiness. Yes, this does require a bit more timing but could lead to a superior result. Now you are ready to choose your favorite filling. However, before putting your filling in the pan, stop and ask yourself if you need to par-bake your crust. Stay tuned for next week’s Tip as we delve into what par-baking is, when you need to do it and how to par-bake. See you then!