Although we all should endeavor to cut down on our sugar intake, understanding sugar and how to cook it is essential for those cooks who wish to make candies and other desserts. This Cooking Tip will take you into this world and help you feel more comfortable with cooking sugar and how to use it.
I have written other Cooking Tips on sugar types. See these Tips for a review.
Before I start the discussion of cooking sugar, I need to caution you about two things. First, cooked sugar is very hot and very dangerous. Spilling it onto your skin can result in 3rd-degree burns, something we all want to avoid. Therefore, it is best to remove children and pets from the kitchen while you are cooking sugar. Also, have a bowl of ice water nearby so that if you do spill some on your fingers, you can immediately plunge them into an ice bath.
The second caution concerns those who live at higher altitudes. I will give you temperatures that correspond to different cooked sugar stages, but those are only accurate at lower altitudes. For every 500 feet above sea level, drop the recommended temperature by 1°F. See this Tip on Making Candy at Altitude for a more involved discussion.

Sugar syrup is made by combining sugar and water and then cooking to the desired stage. As the sugar reaches higher and higher temperatures, the water evaporates more, resulting in a higher sugar concentration. This is shown in the discussion below as the percent solids that are in the mixture. The ratio of sugar to water that you start with can vary depending on the recipe and is often specified as a percentage. For example, a 50% sugar syrup translates to a mixture made of 50% water and 50% sugar. It is best to measure these ingredients on a kitchen scale.
The method of cooking sugar is simple. Combine cold water and sugar in a saucepan. Gently stir on medium heat until the sugar dissolves. Bring to a boil. Rinse down any sugar crystals accumulated on the pan’s sides using a dampened pastry brush. Once you reach the preferred level of cooking, skim off any impurities, allow the mixture to cool and store it in a covered container in the refrigerator. The cover is important as the sugar syrup can crystallize without it.
As you start cooking, you want the sugar and water mixture to come about halfway up the sides of the pot. Too small a pot can increase the time it takes to cook and lead to the risk of boiling over. On the other hand, if you use too large a pot, the mixture can cook much too quickly, risking overcooking it.
As you practice, you will be better able to gauge the best cooking temperatures, but medium to high heat is best. If the heat is too low, it can take a long time to cook; if it is too high, the mixture will cook too quickly.

If you have ever delved into the world of making candy, you will have probably heard terms such as hard ball, soft ball, hard crack, etc., which refer to stages of cooked sugar. I will define these terms, but fortunately for us, you do not need to risk burning yourself trying to see if your sugar syrup has reached these stages. Instead, we just need to rely on an accurate candy thermometer. Using a thermometer is much more precise and much safer.
Different sources will list a different number of stages for cooked sugar. In reality, there are 11 different stages. Each corresponds to a different temperature and is best suited for different purposes. Some sources will combine some of these stages and may give varying recommended uses. However, they are usually very close. Let’s dive in.
Nappé Stage
- 221°F
- 72% solids
- The sugar syrup pearls through a slotted spoon or skimmer.
- Jams, jellies, marmalades, gummies, fruit jellies
Short Thread (Petit Filé)
- 225°F
- 76% solids
- A drop of syrup between your fingers (note the caution above) transforms into a short thread.
- Jellies, glazes
Long Thread (Grand Filé)
- 230°F
- 80% solids
- A drop of syrup between your fingers transforms into a long thread.
- Glazes, syrups, sauces
Soft Ball (Petit Boulé)
- 239°F
- 85% solids
- Dropping syrup in cold water transforms into a soft ball that flattens between your fingers.
- French buttercream, certain jams, fudge, pralines
Firm Ball (Boulé)
- 248°F
- 87% solids
- Dropping syrup in cold water produces a firm ball that doesn’t flatten between your fingers.
- Italian Meringue, buttercream
Hard Ball (Gros Boulé)
- 266°F
- 92% solids
- Syrup dropped in cold water transforms into a hard ball.
- Marshmallows, toffee, divinity
Soft Crack (Petit Cassé)
- 284°F
- 95% solids
- Syrup dropped in cold water produces a flexible thread that you can bend slightly before it cracks.
- Taffy, butterscotch candies
Hard Crack (Grand Cassé)
- 302°F
- 99% solids
- Dropping the syrup into cold water produces a hard, brittle thread that breaks when bent.
- Nougats, brittles, hard candies
Caramel – there are three stages of caramel, all of which are 100% solids. There are two different types of caramel. Dry caramel is made by melting sugar in a dry pan, whereas wet caramel involves dissolving the sugar in water and cooking.
Clear Caramel
- 320°F
- All the water has evaporated, resulting in liquid sugar that is a light golden color.
- Nougatine, croquembouche assembly
Light Caramel
- 338°F
- Sugar syrup reaches a golden brown color. At this point, the sugar starts to break down, the caramel flavor begins to develop, and a light smoke may occur.
- Floating islands, crème caramel
Burnt Caramel
- 356°F
- Sugar reaches a dark brown color, and you will see a dark, acrid smoke.
- Caramel food coloring, topping for crème brulee
Troubleshooting
- One of the main problems that cooks encounter is that the mixture crystallizes. Try these tips to prevent this.
- Limit your stirring. Combine the sugar and water off the heat and stir just until the sugar is moistened. After that, avoid stirring, if possible, as just the agitation can produce crystallization.
- When stirring, use a clean stainless steel spoon each time. Any sugar left on the spoon can encourage crystallization if you use it again. Avoid wood or plastic utensils as they can have foreign particles or fats on the surface.
- Brush the sides of the pan with cold water using a pastry brush to remove any sugar crystals. Similar results can be achieved by putting a lid on the boiling mixture, as the steam will wash away the crystals.
- Use an “interfering agent.” Adding these ingredients can help prevent crystallization. Examples are glucose syrup, corn syrup, cream of tartar or lemon juice.
- If you are making something to which you are adding cream or nuts, warm them first. If not, the large temperature discrepancy can lead to crystallization.
Candy making is not something everyone wants to learn, but homemade candies can undoubtedly impress your guests or your gift recipients. It is not difficult, but it does take the proper equipment and attention to detail.
Happy Candy Making!

























