Olives – a Taste of the Mediterranean

Are you partial to olives? I must admit that I am not. A nice olive tapenade served with warm bread is one thing but olives served by themselves or as the main flavor is just not to my taste. Many people do, though, enjoy olives. That is why this Cooking Tip is dedicated to that topic.

An olive is a stone fruit (the pit is the stone) similar to mangos, apricots, peaches and cherries. Olives can be served as “table” olives or made into olive oil. Almost 90% of the olives harvested are turned into olive oil. For a more in-depth look at olive oil, especially Extra Virgin Olive Oil, see this prior Tip.

Although any olive can be used for either purpose, producers do have ones they prefer for each end product. For table olives, harvesters like to use a larger olive that has a lower oil content. If destined for oil, the preference is for smaller fruit with a higher oil content

All olives start out green and turn darker as they ripen. Semi-ripe ones turn red to brown although the interior is still green. Fully ripe olives will be purple or dark brown through to the pit.

Some people will tell you that you cannot eat fresh olives as they are toxic. This is not accurate. The reason almost no one eats fresh olives is because of their extremely bitter flavor. This is due to a compound called oleuropein. It acts as a natural defense against predators. To make the olives palatable, they must undergo a curing process that dampens the bitterness by drawing out the oleuropein and converting the natural sugars to lactic acid.

Curing methods

• Brine-curing – with this common method, fully ripened olives are gradually fermented in brine. The brine acts to intensify the fruit’s natural flavors. The process can take up to a year.
• Water-curing – this method involves soaking, rinsing and repeating multiple times. Since it is a very slow process, it is not done very often. Some producers will start with a water brine and then move to a seasoned brine.
• Dry-curing – this method involves packing the olives in salt for a month or longer followed by removing the salt. Salt pulls the moisture and bitterness out. Sometimes the olives get bathed in olive oil to keep them juicy and plump. They have a deeply concentrated flavor and a wrinkly appearance.
• Lye-curing – touted as both time and cost-effective, this method immerses the olives in an alkaline lye solution. Opponents of this method feel it can be detrimental to the flavor with a chemical aftertaste and a bland olive.
• Sun/air curing – this is a rarely done process that involves fermenting the olives on the branch or, once picked, in the sunshine.

As you may have seen at your supermarket, there are multiple types of olives. I will discuss a few of the more common ones.

Castelvetrano (aka Nocellara del Belice olives

• Origin – this olive is grown primarily in a Sicilian town of the same name.
• Color – naturally bright green. Look at the label to make sure there are no color additives.
• Flavor – mild & buttery. They are said to be a good choice for those who do not like olives.
• Texture – meaty
• Process – harvested young and cured in lightly salted water.
• Storage – as they will oxidize and brown quickly, keep them submerged in the brine until ready to use.
• Uses – snacking or as part of a cheese board. They pair well with cheeses such as feta, goat cheese, Pecorino or Asiago. They work well as marinated olives as they hold their shape. They are also a great choice for tapenades.

Kalamata

• Origin – Greece
• Color – deep purple
• Flavor – rich, earthy and complex
• Texture – meaty
• Process – brine-cured. In Greece, they are often found packed in olive oil, but in the US they are usually found in a vinegary brine.
• Uses – one of the best choices for a tapenade or caponata. Experts recommend buying refrigerated ones as they will be fresher. Jarred ones can be mushy and bland.

Manzanilla

• Origin – Spain and California
• Color – green
• Flavor – this type can be a bit bitter, sour and grassy.
• Texture – meaty
• Process – brine-cured
• Uses – these are typically found stuffed with pimento and in a glass jar.

Mission

• Origin – these are unique to the US. They were originally cultivated in California on Jesuit and Franciscan missions. Thus, their name.
• Color – black
• Flavor – most tasters describe them as watery, mushy and metallic.
• Process – they are usually found canned.

Niçoise

• Origin – from Nice, France
• Color – ranges from purple-brown to brown-black, depending on ripeness.
• Flavor – assertive with a lingering bitterness.
• Uses – Niçoise salads

Gaeta

• Origin – Italy
• Color – purplish brown
• Flavor – rich, intense, described as having a “coffee-like depth”. Also described as bitter, buttery, fruity and citrusy.
• Process – these olives remain on the tree until they are ripe and develop a bold, earthy flavor. They can be either dry-cured with salt, which turns them black and wrinkled, or brine-cured and then dipped in olive oil.
• Uses – because of their bold flavor, they are well suited to slow-cooked stews and braises.

Picholine

• Origin – France, Morrocco and California
• Color – green with a torpedo shape
• Flavor – clean, briny, almost buttery
• Process – harvested while still green to maintain their crisp, creamy texture and brine-cured.
• Uses – eat as is or on an antipasto platter.

Alfonso

• Origin – native to Chile
• Color – purple color from the red wine or red wine vinegar in which it is cured. They are also large in size.
• Flavor – sour, plum- or wine-like, tangy
• Texture – soft but meaty
• Process – brine-cured in red wine or red wine vinegar.
• Uses – eating as a snack.

Gordal

• Origin – Seville, Spain
• Color – green and one of the largest such varieties. So, also known as “queen” or “colossal”.
• Flavor – light, fruity, peppery
• Texture – dense and firm
• Uses – snacking, especially with mild cheeses.

Ligurian (aka Taggiasca)

• Origin – from the NW coast of Italy
• Color – both green and black
• Flavor – fruity, sweet, smoky
• Texture – tough skin but relatively soft flesh.
• Uses – snack or pasta (e.g., puttanesca). Also yields high-quality oil. Is a good substitute for niçoise olives.

Cerignola

• Origin – Puglia, Italy
• Color – green, black or maroon
• Flavor – slightly sweet, vegetal, fruity and very buttery
• Texture – firm
• Process – picked when barely ripe and brine-cured with a small amount of vinegar.
• Uses – good for snacking.

Nyon

• Origin – France
• Color – black
• Flavor – earthy, salty, intense coffee-like bitterness
• Texture – meaty
• Process – dry salt cured then soaked in olive oil or brine to rehydrate.

Oil-Cured

• Origin – this is not a particular type of olive but it is an olive that is dry-brined and coated with olive oil to rehydrate. They are sold as “oil-cured” Moroccan or Provencal olives.
• Taste – mild, floral
• Process – dry-cured and then softened in oil for several months. The Provencal style is herb-coated and the Moroccan style is saltier.
• Uses – the Provencal style is for eating out of hand and the Moroccan is used in cooking.

Olives may be sold pitted or unpitted. The pitted olives might be saltier and mushier. They might also lack the complex, fruity flavors of unpitted. The reason is that once pitted, the olives are returned to the brine for packing. The brine can then penetrate the interior of the olive, turning it mushy as well as increasing the absorption of salt. Therefore, if you have the choice, you may want to consider unpitted olives.

To pit them, you can use a hand-held olive pitter. This causes the least amount of damage to the olive. If you do not have one, place the olive on a work surface. Hold the flat of the knife over the olive and press firmly with your hand to loosen the meat from the pit. You can then remove the pit with your fingers.

You may have noticed that black olives tend to be sold in cans whereas the green ones are in bottles. According to a website called Olive Knowledge, there is a reason for this. The processing of these olives involves placing them in a diluted lye solution followed by rinsing. Lye helps the oxidation process to penetrate down to the pits. After the lye solution, they are placed in a brine to set the color. Following this, they are canned with some of the brine. The canning process is done with a high heat that glass would not tolerate. Also, the cans are airtight for safety. Finally, cans are cheaper than glass.

When buying olives, look for ones that are firm, not mushy and without bruises. Look for those dressed in brine to keep them moist and flavorful.

Store your olives in the refrigerator in the liquid they came in and covered loosely with plastic wrap for up to 10 days. If there is no brine, you can make your own by adding one teaspoon of salt to 1½ cups of water.

Most smaller supermarkets will probably only carry canned or jarred olives. However, larger stores may have a larger olive variety from which to choose. That makes it easier to find just what you like and want to use for your particular purpose. I hope you have that option!